|
|
Post by parkin79 on Aug 20, 2018 9:50:39 GMT -5
I am wanting to make a wedding present for a friend of mine and i have seen signs with stacked text on each other. i am unsure how to get this affect? have you guys had any experience with this type of cutting? Attachments:
|
|
grg
Junior Member
Posts: 140
|
Post by grg on Aug 20, 2018 11:25:15 GMT -5
It's just machining the blank in different layers and combining the text for the lowest layer. The real trick is to tie in finishing steps to the machining to reduce time spent on the various stains (no masking). In that pictured case, I would do the whitewash over the area where it says "Ollie and Noe" on the blank board before machining and then seal that white area with a clear sanding seal coat (Zinzer makes a good one that dries really fast). Then, machine the "Ollie and Noe" and pocket the rest down to the first layer - to the surface of the top of the dark text (1/8" or 3/16" deep pocket). Then, stain the surrounding area for the "ENGLISH..." with the dark stain (wiping any off any residue that gets on the "Ollie and Noe" text - the sealer keeps the dark stain from soaking in over the white wash). Then, machine the full depth contours (another 1/8" or 3/16") and stain the entire thing with a medium stain (again wiping off the lighter areas). The tractor in that case will need some detail work but it looks like it just had a stain rubbed on / wiped off.
It is possible to just machine the whole thing and apply the stain to each surface with a foam brush (use one with a plastic reinforcement in the middle so it's a little stiffer). It would require less time on the CNC bed if you do all the staining after full machining (unless you are using a fixture to re-register it for the next machining step after removal) but it's a LOT more tedious to stain it completely afterwards.
I've seen those for sale at various places and I can't believe how little they charge for those - I couldn't justify what they sell those for even if it was just programming time alone (not counting material and production time). I wouldn't want to compete with those people - they are clearly better at sign making than they are at math. ;-).
|
|
|
|
Post by parkin79 on Aug 20, 2018 12:21:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice, i will take a stab at it tonight.
|
|
|
|
Post by stevem on Aug 20, 2018 16:35:58 GMT -5
Go to your vectric site! There is a very complete tutorial on exactly what you want to do. Very detailed and complete.
|
|
|
|
Post by parkin79 on Aug 20, 2018 17:23:45 GMT -5
yep i just found that earlier today. Hate it when that happens, dad tells you to go get a tool, you cant find it, he walks in finds it right in front of you.
|
|
chief
New Member
Posts: 3 
|
Post by chief on Sept 7, 2018 20:18:18 GMT -5
parkin79 - how did they turn out? I've made two of these in the past couple months (gifts) and mine have come out relatively well; curious on your experience.
I'm still working on getting the different colors to work right - I'm terrible at finishing / staining. self-taught leaves a lot of gaps in the knowledge-base hah
|
|
|
|
Post by parkin79 on Sept 10, 2018 18:45:03 GMT -5
It's on the to do list.
|
|
|
|
Post by JohnnyBeWood on Oct 1, 2018 18:43:06 GMT -5
How do you guys sand this type of project? I've done some releif type carvings, just flat and havnt found a quick way to sand yet...don't tell me there is no quick way...
|
|
grg
Junior Member
Posts: 140
|
Post by grg on Oct 2, 2018 11:48:49 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by stevem on Oct 2, 2018 19:38:03 GMT -5
I use these 3M disks and they work well. The only problem is they wear out very fast and they are not cheap.
I tried some Dremmel ones and they also work well. I got them at Menards, but they are also available at Home Depot.
I now use the Dremmel soft wire wheels. They last longer and get the fuzies out quickly.
|
|
