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Post by ricphoto on Mar 14, 2018 11:13:32 GMT -5
Ran V1 of the latest self training piece last night and was generally happy with the improved cutting times (Thanks Fein and Traindriver ;-) a bit over 4 hours to cut this one out... 9x10x1 piece of Spanish Cedar that was close at hand (smells great when cutting) 1/4" EM rough and profile cuts at 100 ipm and 12000 rpm...straight to the 1/16th tapered BN for the finishing pass (100 ipm w/ 8% stepover 15 ipm plunge and 13000 rpm)...That saved a lot of time and while it gave me polished cuts on 90% of it there were some fuzzy areas on what I'll call the downhill side of a few areas... _ Looking at changing any other settings I noticed that one thing we hadn't mention was the "plunge rate"...while tweaking everything else I've left that at the default 15 ipm...could that be part of the problem? Will be prepping a really nice piece of curly cherry for the next version so would appreciate and ideas on how I should further tweak the file... (and yes...I missed on the profile pass on the first one by a hair...it's been adjusted ;-)   |
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Post by arsystems on Mar 14, 2018 20:40:04 GMT -5
dude you are KILLING it... NICE!
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Post by ricphoto on Mar 14, 2018 23:34:04 GMT -5
dude you are KILLING it... NICE! Thanks...I'm having a blast ;-p I heard about adding a stiffening finish before brushing the piece to remove the fuzzies so I put on a few coats of satin brushing lacquer...like the way the Spanish Cedar looks with that finish...Hope it helps in removing/minimizing the fuzzies...we'll see Also ran another version on a piece of Birdseye Maple to see how much of that was type of wood vs technique...some improvement but still not quite what I'm looking for...will try it again tomorrow and add a 2nd finishing pass with a 1/32" BN... The fun continues ;-)   |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 10:33:13 GMT -5
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Post by ricphoto on Mar 16, 2018 11:04:16 GMT -5
Thanks...I'm trying/learning ;-p Had a little better result using your tips (and others) on the piece shown in the "cutting air" thread... Ordered a can...thanks for the link The journey continues... |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2018 9:39:00 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that the Sealcoat is available at HD, Lowes, Rockler, and any other place that has finishes.
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Post by dickdelmi on Mar 19, 2018 11:55:28 GMT -5
Ric, you are leaving me in the dust. Beautiful work.
I always think that the "fuzzies" are a grain problem if the rest of the job is smooth. It is probably quicker to deal with the problem after carving rather than slow down the whole process trying to get a "perfect" job right off the machine.
That's just my thoughts.
PS: How do you convert the .stl files to .crv?
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Post by ricphoto on Mar 19, 2018 14:46:15 GMT -5
Ric, you are leaving me in the dust. Beautiful work. I always think that the "fuzzies" are a grain problem if the rest of the job is smooth. It is probably quicker to deal with the problem after carving rather than slow down the whole process trying to get a "perfect" job right off the machine. That's just my thoughts. PS: How do you convert the .stl files to .crv? Thanks Dick...you ought to see the one I'm cutting now to celebrate my 1 month anniversary with the AR8...20 hour cut ;-p Tried to call you to walk through what I know about the .stl stuff...give me a holler |
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Post by redwood on Mar 19, 2018 21:23:24 GMT -5
I've come to believe that the fuzzies are unavoidable in some woods. Really not that big of a deal to clean up with a dremel STL files are just imported. There is not much you can do with it in Vcarve, other then to resize it. With Aspire, you can do a little more. Here is one I played around with. I did add most of the creatures. It is out of redwood.  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2018 17:32:01 GMT -5
STL files, after importing and scaling, are 3D geometry that requires the use of the 3D Roughing and Finishing Toolpaths to generate G-code output.
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