Puck plug specs - Replacement?

[pedro]

Hi all,

today I had the unpleasant experience of the spindle not stopping when I was zeroing in the Z with the plug. I then tried it handholding the puck and indeed, it was not stopping. I was happy to have bought a replacement just in case, tried that one and it worked, so the puck is the culprit.

I thought maybe the plug was loose (the new one entered quite tight), so I tried to expand the little stripes but it fell apart. So, now I was wondering...there is not much science right? Even though many cables, they are all together. I thought I just replace the plug. Now...who knows what plug that is? How do I google it? Specs?

For 65 bucks a new puck, I want to try to fix the one I have.

thanks.

[Bob]

After several years of use, the wire broke at the puck. I crimped on a new connector and fixed the problem. The banana plug was also easy to replace. I got one from my neighbor. Just measure the hole the plug goes into. Or, take the old one to a place that repairs electronics. Or, order online.

[pedro]

Thanks, yes it is a banana connector, just wanted to know which one...will google a few, yeah, not close to any shop here, need to get it online...

[gerry]

The puck wiring is very simple. It is basically a single wire. The path is puck to wire to banana connector. You can use any of several methods for checking continuity. One terminal on puck, and the other on the end of the banana connector. If you want, you can replace the puck or surface it. Make sure you accurately check the thickness. You can change the thickness value of the puck on the controller using the value C.A.D. THICKNESS.

[jrg]

Any major electronics store or professional audio store should carry the banana plug.

[pedro]

Thanks guys, I ordered a set of banana plugs from amazon. I thought so that it is just continuity.

This all is a consequence from me to not build a holder for the puck and keep it connected at all times. After an accident a while ago where the cable got into the gantry, I am disconnecting it each time I start to cut.

Anyone with a great example of what to do? ....I thought just sticking a holder (I guess I can build one cutting it into oak or similar) to the side....

[grossmsj]

I've just gone to the 'touch paper' method. It has become a habit. It might be a tad slower, but I trust that method completely.
The only time I use the puck is when I use the rotary 4th axis attachment. In that case I built a holder for the puck that gives me a reliable and consistent zero for the A-axis center point.

[pedro]

Aug 15, 2022 9:34:18 GMT -5 grossmsj said:

I've just gone to the 'touch paper' method. It has become a habit. It might be a tad slower, but I trust that method completely.
The only time I use the puck is when I use the rotary 4th axis attachment. In that case I built a holder for the puck that gives me a reliable and consistent zero for the A-axis center point.

For me it would be more than a tad. Maybe I am not as skilled yet, but to center X&Y takes a while...so I am happy not to have to do it with the Z

[gerry]

The puck is very accurate if it is calibrated. I measured the puck, then set CAD THICKNESS, then test. Also, lower your TOOLSET speed from 600 to about 150-200. I use some tiny bits, and have never broken one after I lowered TOOLSET SPEED.

I place my puck BESIDE the position where the bit will lower. I can then lower Z at full speed until approximately the correct puck height. Stop Z, they move puck under bit and hit the TOOLSET button. It lowers the bit the final inch or so at a much slower rate. Saves from broken bits and dimpling of the puck.

[grossmsj]

I'm sure you are right gerry. I need to develop some trust.
My unsatisfactory experience was doing some fine engraving with multiple bits. I found that the bit was not cutting when it should have. Now I was probably only off a small fraction of a millimeter, but it did nothing for my confidence. I was brand new to CNC then, and have learned a lot since. So I need to just go back and put that approach to the test.

[pedro]

Aug 15, 2022 12:56:58 GMT -5 gerry said:

The puck is very accurate if it is calibrated. I measured the puck, then set CAD THICKNESS, then test. Also, lower your TOOLSET speed from 600 to about 150-200. I use some tiny bits, and have never broken one after I lowered TOOLSET SPEED.

I place my puck BESIDE the position where the bit will lower. I can then lower Z at full speed until approximately the correct puck height. Stop Z, they move puck under bit and hit the TOOLSET button. It lowers the bit the final inch or so at a much slower rate. Saves from broken bits and dimpling of the puck.

Thanks for the tip, I ready you serveral times, I tried it yesterday and it works as a charm. Changing the speed lowers the impact on the puck.

Next is to rectify the puck and recalibrate the thickness....what is the best way to rectify it? Just sandpaper? Will it not create an unintended slope on the puck....? txs

[gerry]

Aug 16, 2022 7:50:09 GMT -5 pedro said:

Aug 15, 2022 12:56:58 GMT -5 gerry said:

The puck is very accurate if it is calibrated. I measured the puck, then set CAD THICKNESS, then test. Also, lower your TOOLSET speed from 600 to about 150-200. I use some tiny bits, and have never broken one after I lowered TOOLSET SPEED.

I place my puck BESIDE the position where the bit will lower. I can then lower Z at full speed until approximately the correct puck height. Stop Z, they move puck under bit and hit the TOOLSET button. It lowers the bit the final inch or so at a much slower rate. Saves from broken bits and dimpling of the puck.

Thanks for the tip, I ready you serveral times, I tried it yesterday and it works as a charm. Changing the speed lowers the impact on the puck.

Next is to rectify the puck and recalibrate the thickness....what is the best way to rectify it? Just sandpaper? Will it not create an unintended slope on the puck....? txs

I measure my puck with a micrometer. Mitutoyo 293-340-30 Digital Micrometer, Inch/Metric, Ratchet Stop, 0-1" (0-25.4mm) Range, 0.00005" (0.001mm) Resolution, +/-0.00005" Accuracy, Meets IP65 Specifications  www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBHXWGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's also great for measuring the diameter of your bits. A 1/4" bit is not always 0.250". I wouldn't surface the puck unless it's pretty bad. In my case, my son has a very accurate mill.   Ask around. A lot of people have them.

You could:

1. Super glue  or hot glue a piece of wood (big enough to mount puck on) to spoil board.
2. Mark top of wood completely with pencil. Surface wood flat in small increments (reduce compression, etc) until ALL pencil marks are gone.
3. Mount puck to board with super glue.
4. Surface puck in VERY SMALL increments until surface is clear.
5. Use acetone to unmount puck from board.
6. Measure puck with micrometer.

..or.. try this with a new connector on the end. I have no idea how accurate these are.

CNC Z-Axis Router Mill Touch Plate Tool Setting Probe Milling Tool Pro

[pedro]

Thanks. Well, it is not that bad, just 2-3 peaks that I can feel, was thinking a light sanding just to take them off withoug trying to get the littls dents go. Anyway, I now use the second one which is new, but once I get the banana plugs I plan to go back to the original one.

Now, I have a mitotuyo caliper...nice that micrometer though. Is it really necesary that level of precision? Isn't it that our machines can't define under 0.5 milimeters?

[gerry]

Aug 16, 2022 15:15:29 GMT -5 pedro said:

Now, I have a mitotuyo caliper...nice that micrometer though. Is it really necesary that level of precision? Isn't it that our machines can't define under 0.5 milimeters?

I like the precision for measuring bits, etc. I only have one, so it's a decent one.