Tips on Changing Out Fluid Lines and Troubleshooting Flow
Jul 19, 2021 16:16:11 GMT -5
azartisan and grossmsj like this
Post by gene35146 on Jul 19, 2021 16:16:11 GMT -5
Changing Out the Fluid Lines AR8 Pro
I decided I was tired of looking at the discolored lines on my cooling tubes and decided to change them out. At the same time I decided to add a flow control indicator and a silver coil to try and stop future discoloration.
I wanted to make sure that fluid was always flowing lessening the chance of a dry spindle and having it burn out.
Here are some lessons I learned and parts I used for it.
The first thing is that you need rigid tubing not silicon tubing. I actually ordered silicon tubing based on another post and it is not suitable for several reasons that I will outline.
1. It kinks or compresses easily the pinching can cut off fluid to your spindle
2. It is very hard to feed thru the rigid conduct from the spindle back to the pump
Other advantages of rigid tubing.
1. It is easy to push thru the rigid conduct
2. It is the same as the tubing that was shipped
3. It is stiff enough that you don’t need the expensive Enzo connectors that another post suggested
Here is the tubing that I used. I was able to get it at my local Home Depot. It comes in 20 foot roll which is more than you will need. I took a fitting that I had to make sure it would work on the connectors. It shows that it is 5/16 IN OD by 3/16 IND. I know the original tubing is metric but this works just fine. The tubing is $5.88.
Here is the silver coil that you just drop in the tank to help stop the discoloration. It was $9.71
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2LCG2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It shows it is a ¼ to 3/8 ID fitting and it works fine. This is one advantage of the rigid tubing it fits tight enough that you don’t need expensive compression fittings. It will be a little hard to get the tubing on the plastic ends but you can just push. If you have problems take a bic or other lighter and heat the tube for just a few seconds then push it on.
Tips
1. When threading the tubing thru the rigid tubing do it AFTER you connect to the spindle. The reason is that the tubing is rigid and will twist when you are tightening down the compression fitting on the spindle with it out of the rigid tubing it can twist and stay unkinked.
2. I keep my fluid in a ketchup bottle or glue bottle (same thing) and it is easy to fill the reservoir
3. I used a sharp box cutter to cut the tubing it gives a nice crisp straight cut
Biggest Thing I learned
When I first changed out the fluid some debris got stuck in the tank propellor and I thought I had a bad pump. A tap with a screw driver on the side of the tank dislodged the debris and got it flowing again (per Chad's excellent support as normal). I had to do this twice and after the second time it kept flowing. This may keep you from buying a new pump when your current one is working fine.
I wanted to make sure that fluid was always flowing lessening the chance of a dry spindle and having it burn out.
Here are some lessons I learned and parts I used for it.
The first thing is that you need rigid tubing not silicon tubing. I actually ordered silicon tubing based on another post and it is not suitable for several reasons that I will outline.
1. It kinks or compresses easily the pinching can cut off fluid to your spindle
2. It is very hard to feed thru the rigid conduct from the spindle back to the pump
Other advantages of rigid tubing.
1. It is easy to push thru the rigid conduct
2. It is the same as the tubing that was shipped
3. It is stiff enough that you don’t need the expensive Enzo connectors that another post suggested
Here is the tubing that I used. I was able to get it at my local Home Depot. It comes in 20 foot roll which is more than you will need. I took a fitting that I had to make sure it would work on the connectors. It shows that it is 5/16 IN OD by 3/16 IND. I know the original tubing is metric but this works just fine. The tubing is $5.88.
www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-O-D-x-3-16-in-I-D-x-20-ft-Clear-PVC-Vinyl-Tube-714422/207144222
Here is the silver coil that you just drop in the tank to help stop the discoloration. It was $9.71
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2LCG2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the fluid indicator that I used. It was $22.64 couldn’t find a cheaper one but there should be one since it is only plastic
www.zoro.com/sp-scienceware-flow-indicator-pin-wheel-h19937-0002/i/G8454695/?q=G8454695It shows it is a ¼ to 3/8 ID fitting and it works fine. This is one advantage of the rigid tubing it fits tight enough that you don’t need expensive compression fittings. It will be a little hard to get the tubing on the plastic ends but you can just push. If you have problems take a bic or other lighter and heat the tube for just a few seconds then push it on.
Tips
1. When threading the tubing thru the rigid tubing do it AFTER you connect to the spindle. The reason is that the tubing is rigid and will twist when you are tightening down the compression fitting on the spindle with it out of the rigid tubing it can twist and stay unkinked.
2. I keep my fluid in a ketchup bottle or glue bottle (same thing) and it is easy to fill the reservoir
3. I used a sharp box cutter to cut the tubing it gives a nice crisp straight cut
Biggest Thing I learned
When I first changed out the fluid some debris got stuck in the tank propellor and I thought I had a bad pump. A tap with a screw driver on the side of the tank dislodged the debris and got it flowing again (per Chad's excellent support as normal). I had to do this twice and after the second time it kept flowing. This may keep you from buying a new pump when your current one is working fine.
Youtube video showing the flow indicator working.
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