AR8 newbie questions AFTER assembly

[pedro]

So I got my machine, the experience was not exactly perfect, but I managed to assembly the machine and did a first cut, and love it so far.

BUT, a few things botther me:

1) The tool box just sits theres, should it not be attached? When I close a drawer it slips back, I have to pull it forward, ans so on. I would love to have 2 screws to keep it fix.

2) The RPM display....in order to get a decent reading I have to bow over down to the horizontal level. Is that normal? Any other way around?

3) Resurfacing...is that necessary really? I tested and it is pretty accurate just out of the box as is....

4) Spoilboard. I plan to do a lot cut through. Do you add another spoilboard on top of the existing one? Any visual or idea how to make my own spoilboard instead of damaging the stock on?

Thanks, Pedro

[toddd]

Dec 28, 2020 10:01:35 GMT -5 pedro said:

So I got my machine, the experience was not exactly perfect, but I managed to assembly the machine and did a first cut, and love it so far.

BUT, a few things botther me:

1) The tool box just sits theres, should it not be attached? When I close a drawer it slips back, I have to pull it forward, ans so on. I would love to have 2 screws to keep it fix.

2) The RPM display....in order to get a decent reading I have to bow over down to the horizontal level. Is that normal? Any other way around?

3) Resurfacing...is that necessary really? I tested and it is pretty accurate just out of the box as is....

4) Spoilboard. I plan to do a lot cut through. Do you add another spoilboard on top of the existing one? Any visual or idea how to make my own spoilboard instead of damaging the stock on?

Thanks, Pedro

1. I put the foam pads included on the machine rails and under tool box support, that keeps it from moving.

2. Need to bend over to see,

3. Might as well make it flat with the machine it takes just a small bit off and will save you from the next questions about why my 10 hour carving looks wrong.

4. Spoil board is a sacrificial part meant to be resurfaced and replaced as necessary, funny some people want to keep it pristine and not cut into it but that is its purpose, you can put another on top but you lose a bit of Z height.

Enjoy your new machine,

[pedro]

Thanks Todd. Not sure I kept the foam pads, I used the transparent pads for the shelf, but I guess I just get some similar as those for the tool box.

I just wanted to confirm I did not miss a screw or something, thanks.

Yeah, spoilboard is such a thing...you are right, I hope there is a toolpath to recreate those stripes from a 3/4 MDF to replace them in the future....

[toddd]

Dec 30, 2020 20:07:51 GMT -5 pedro said:

Thanks Todd. Not sure I kept the foam pads, I used the transparent pads for the shelf, but I guess I just get some similar as those for the tool box.

I just wanted to confirm I did not miss a screw or something, thanks.

Yeah, spoilboard is such a thing...you are right, I hope there is a toolpath to recreate those stripes from a 3/4 MDF to replace them in the future....

I have 9 months so far on my machine and original spoil board, I have about 1/4" to go before the screws so I'll need a new one soon, I'm not sure we can make those strips on our machines as they are longer than we can cut unless diagonal which seems wasteful. I'll need to figure this out soon,

[gerry]

I intend to cut the strips on my table saw or track saw. After that I'll machine the rounded ends and hole drilling on 1/2 the length of the strip. Then, flip the piece end-for-end and machine the other end. It'll be easy to make some kind of jig end-stop. The left and right end pieces are different.

[toddd]

Dec 31, 2020 1:22:45 GMT -5 gerry said:

I intend to cut the strips on my table saw or track saw. After that I'll machine the rounded ends and hole drilling on 1/2 the length of the strip. Then, flip the piece end-for-end and machine the other end. It'll be easy to make some kind of jig end-stop. The left and right end pieces are different.

This seems quite reasonable and ripping strips on the track saw is easy enough, (except for getting the 1" mdf, that stuff is heavy), and maybe to crosscut for the strips as they are 48 1/2", the width of a sheet. I was wondering if the rounded ends need to be there, I like the clearance purpose for them but maybe not essential, that just leaves drilling holes.

lots to think about

[gerry]

Dec 31, 2020 12:44:24 GMT -5 toddd said:

Dec 31, 2020 1:22:45 GMT -5 gerry said:

Yup.... I'll probably round the corners... just to do it, and keep the original look. I figure I can make a couple of spacer blocks the exact width of the strips, so they should come out perfectly parallel.

Actually, now that I think about it, I can use one strip as the spacer/alignment block. 

[pedro]

Yes, I guess the table saw is the way to go...and I also think we can live with not rounded edges, right? Was not aware it was 1"MDF, though, not sure where to get that...

[stevem]

pedro: Just get 1/2" mdf and glue 2 pieces together. Works great and you probably won't notice the glue line.

[pedro]

Jan 1, 2021 11:00:42 GMT -5 stevem said:

pedro: Just get 1/2" mdf and glue 2 pieces together. Works great and you probably won't notice the glue line.

Great idea. After cutting it into stripes glue line will not be noticed...and if it is, who cares....thanks.