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Post by nlalston on Nov 4, 2020 4:14:33 GMT -5
I am TRULY hoping that someone can help me regarding a problem I am experiencing with my Iconic 8 CNC. The short video (1:09) will illustrate what is going on. I did have a few hiccups in setting everything up, but followed the procedures to the letter - especially making sure that I didn't torque the fasteners in (as was advised against), though I did insure that they were snug enough to grant the secure hold that they were intended for. Please view the video, and (if at ALL possible) share thoughts on what the condition might be due to.
Advanced thanks,
Nathan
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Post by gerry on Nov 4, 2020 13:07:05 GMT -5
Video is private and cannot be viewed...
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Post by nlalston on Nov 4, 2020 13:35:14 GMT -5
Video is private and cannot be viewed...
Please try the link, now. I had thought that a 'Private' video could only be seen by someone who had been given its link, but was (apparently) wrong about that. I have just went in and changed the listing from Private to Public. |
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Post by mnwoodbee on Nov 5, 2020 10:49:21 GMT -5
Is there lubricant on the guid rails and lead screw?
1 simple thing to check of the list.
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Post by nlalston on Nov 5, 2020 15:31:34 GMT -5
Is there lubricant on the guid rails and lead screw? 1 simple thing to check of the list. |
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Post by nlalston on Nov 5, 2020 15:52:53 GMT -5
No. The only thing I'd seen was a small bit of a blackish colored residue at both ends of the linear rails. But, nothing else - along the order of oiling- having to be seen. By virtue of your having asked that, I read back over the manual to see if, maybe, I had missed something about a need for the user being required to grease/oil the drive mechanisms BEFORE first use. But found no such info. You'd think that initial coatings would have been done right at the factory, before shipment. I'd have no problem applying protective coatings to the necessary components, if the lack of such is indeed the cause of my machine's ills. But (in the event that what's going on is caused by something else) I'd hate to (possibly?) cause more harm by over-oiling/greasing the machine, IF the factory HAD done so, already.
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johnb
Full Member
New owner @ March 2019, AR16 Elite, Aspire, 4th Axis & Laser
Posts: 326
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Post by johnb on Nov 5, 2020 20:14:36 GMT -5
You can't "overoil" the screws. The couplings might be an issue. It's entirely possible that they got "shorted" in the initial (factory) greasing. You don't want any "protectants" on the screws, use the 3-in-1 oil recommended by Axiom (every day of use). Just a quick wipe down with a rag soaked with 3-in-1 is all it takes. When the rag gets "too dirty" from grease and dust, toss it and start with a new one. It doesn't need to be big, and you don't want to oversaturate it to prevent drips on your spoilboards.
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Post by nlalston on Nov 5, 2020 22:35:47 GMT -5
You can't "overoil" the screws. The couplings might be an issue. It's entirely possible that they got "shorted" in the initial (factory) greasing. You don't want any "protectants" on the screws, use the 3-in-1 oil recommended by Axiom (every day of use). Just a quick wipe down with a rag soaked with 3-in-1 is all it takes. When the rag gets "too dirty" from grease and dust, toss it and start with a new one. It doesn't need to be big, and you don't want to oversaturate it to prevent drips on your spoilboards. Thanks, Johnb. Been doing a lot of running, today, and just got home. I'll wait until tomorrow to get down there, in my shop, and apply what you have recommended. Hopefully, it WILL make a difference. I'll inform. Thanks, again. |
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Post by nlalston on Nov 6, 2020 13:55:22 GMT -5
Well, I just took that video down - because the problem is NO MORE  . Chad had expressed that something might have come loose, during shipping, and advised me to check the drive mechanism connectors. Sure enough, one of them was just barely touching the pins on the mating piece and (in fact) fell totally away from it upon my toughing it. I firmly seated it in, and the spindle moved across the gantry with the sound of sweetness - instead of that crazy rattling that it had been doing. I thank Chad - as well as those who also tried to help by responding to that situation. FUN TIMES ARE NOW TO BEGIN. |
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Post by nlalston on Nov 8, 2020 0:24:43 GMT -5
You know, before putting action into Chad's suggestion, I went through the process of oiling and greasing the, respective, linear rails and ball horizontal ball screw (I'd forgotten all about giving attention to the vertical one). In trying to loosen the four screws to the plate which supports the spindle, I encountered great issues. Whoever 'torqued' them in did a monstrous job of doing so. I kid you not - a hammer had to be employed (attacking the end of the allen wrench) by which to aid in loosening. Initially, I had thought that the fact of them (the screws) having been in there so tight, was the reason for the apparent binding. It turned out that it was not the case, but it sure had me in a worrisome tizzy. As has been mentioned, though, all seems to well, now. I've tried a couple of things, since then, and failed at it. But I'm sure that it has to do with user error. This machine is somewhat of a different animal from my, previous, Carvewright machine. That one was quite a bit more automated, which means that there will be some learning required with the one that I have, now. However, I am loving the steps that are required of me, because of realizing what I HAVE. Each day that I look at it - sitting proudly in my shop, I smile. It far exceeds where I AM, right now - but my aim for leaning towards it is due to where I am to GROW, and GO. It WILL happen . God Bless All, Nathan |
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johnb
Full Member
New owner @ March 2019, AR16 Elite, Aspire, 4th Axis & Laser
Posts: 326
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Post by johnb on Nov 8, 2020 15:08:28 GMT -5
. I kid you not - a hammer had to be employed (attacking the end of the allen wrench) by which to aid in loosening. Initially, I had thought that the fact of them (the screws) having been in there so tight, was the reason for the apparent binding. I God Bless All, Nathan If I might suggest...even though the First Rule of Mechanics is "Always start every job with a clean hammer"... That's not a good way to un-torque anything with an Allen wrench. Here's my suggestion: A "normal" Allen wrench is L shaped. Both ends being "the same", one or the other end will fit into the screw while still permitting clearance from adjacent objects when turning the wrench. Put it in that way. Get out a Crescent wrench and crank it down to where it is tight on the leg that isn't into the screw in such a way that the length of the leg is parallel with the handle of the wrench. The jaws of the wrench should be big enough to cover the entire length of the leg and the 90 degree bend in the Allen wrench. Using the Crescent wrench as a "cheater bar", steadily apply pressure to turn the screw in a (usually) counterclockwise direction while making sure to keep the "business end" of the Allen wrench engaged in the screw head fully. If anything fails in this operation, it will be the Allen wrench (twisting under the torque). Allen wrenches are cheap and easily replaced. It goes without saying, make sure that you have the correct sized Allen wrench involved here...know that they come in both Metric and SAE sizes. If space permits, they also make inserts for socket wrenches in all sizes that you might ever need that tend to be "stouter". I have a nice set of T-Handled Allen wrenches. These are very handy for the myriad of cap screws found on the Axioms. I would highly recommend getting a set. Do NOT employ the Second Rule of Mechanics here either...that being "If all else fails, get a bigger hammer". |
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Post by nlalston on Nov 9, 2020 22:11:55 GMT -5
. I kid you not - a hammer had to be employed (attacking the end of the allen wrench) by which to aid in loosening. Initially, I had thought that the fact of them (the screws) having been in there so tight, was the reason for the apparent binding. I God Bless All, Nathan If I might suggest...even though the First Rule of Mechanics is "Always start every job with a clean hammer"... That's not a good way to un-torque anything with an Allen wrench. Here's my suggestion: A "normal" Allen wrench is L shaped. Both ends being "the same", one or the other end will fit into the screw while still permitting clearance from adjacent objects when turning the wrench. Put it in that way. Get out a Crescent wrench and crank it down to where it is tight on the leg that isn't into the screw in such a way that the length of the leg is parallel with the handle of the wrench. The jaws of the wrench should be big enough to cover the entire length of the leg and the 90 degree bend in the Allen wrench. Using the Crescent wrench as a "cheater bar", steadily apply pressure to turn the screw in a (usually) counterclockwise direction while making sure to keep the "business end" of the Allen wrench engaged in the screw head fully. If anything fails in this operation, it will be the Allen wrench (twisting under the torque). Allen wrenches are cheap and easily replaced. It goes without saying, make sure that you have the correct sized Allen wrench involved here...know that they come in both Metric and SAE sizes. If space permits, they also make inserts for socket wrenches in all sizes that you might ever need that tend to be "stouter". I have a nice set of T-Handled Allen wrenches. These are very handy for the myriad of cap screws found on the Axioms. I would highly recommend getting a set. Do NOT employ the Second Rule of Mechanics here either...that being "If all else fails, get a bigger hammer". |
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Post by nlalston on Nov 9, 2020 22:18:36 GMT -5
I happen to have a some of those T-Handled Allen wrenches, but (wouldn't you know it?) the size that I needed could not be found. I have also used a crescent wrench before, kinda like a cheater bar, but didn't even think of that at the time. Tomorrow, I will make a trip to HF to see about availing myself of proper tools to marry to my CNC. I certainly want to do everything in the RIGHT manner. Thanks for your suggestions. They have not been taken lightly.
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. Chad had expressed that something might have come loose, during shipping, and advised me to check the drive mechanism connectors. Sure enough, one of them was just barely touching the pins on the mating piece and (in fact) fell totally away from it upon my toughing it. I firmly seated it in, and the spindle moved across the gantry with the sound of sweetness - instead of that crazy rattling that it had been doing. I thank Chad - as well as those who also tried to help by responding to that situation.