|
Post by seanathan on Oct 29, 2019 19:46:48 GMT -5
I finally got around to making more aluminum parts and it worked pretty well. It had a bit of taper near the bottom that would probably make me run the program twice next time. I'm not sure if it was chip buildup or tool deflection.
|
|
|
Post by buildswithbrian on Oct 31, 2019 5:50:48 GMT -5
looks great... I have also been machining aluminum the last couple months and have the same issue with a bit of taper on the cut, I am pretty sure it is tool deflection.
|
|
|
Post by seanathan on Oct 31, 2019 21:00:44 GMT -5
looks great... I have also been machining aluminum the last couple months and have the same issue with a bit of taper on the cut, I am pretty sure it is tool deflection. What tools and cutting parameters are you using? Have you tried running a program twice or going with a finish pass? I'm using the amana o flute aluminum series with a .020" DOC and 30 IPM. Probably a little conservative but I've also snapped a few bits pushing it too deep.
|
|
|
Post by creighton on Nov 4, 2019 10:26:32 GMT -5
Love the "no dumb area"
|
|
|
Post by buildswithbrian on Nov 4, 2019 19:35:56 GMT -5
looks great... I have also been machining aluminum the last couple months and have the same issue with a bit of taper on the cut, I am pretty sure it is tool deflection. What tools and cutting parameters are you using? Have you tried running a program twice or going with a finish pass? I'm using the amana o flute aluminum series with a .020" DOC and 30 IPM. Probably a little conservative but I've also snapped a few bits pushing it too deep. i have used several types of bit, 1/8" solid carbide 2 flute up-cut, and the cheap 1/4" 2 flute up-cut HSS. both have worked well enough... I have a couple "o" flutes but haven't tried them yet... I am afraid of breaking them I have tried using amana's recommended feed & speeds and DOC and that's the only time I have broken a bit so far (funny huh ) mostly I am using about 45 IPM for the 1/4" bit and about 25 IPM for the 1/8" DOC about .045" for 1/4" but cant remember the DOC for the 1/8", I have been mixing it up a lot, testing the waters. slow and steady seem to be the winner for me so far... and I am always using a jet of air to help clear chips and cool the bit... messy but it's working finish pass seems to help but doesn't eliminate all the taper. boy I sure wish v-carve pro supported adaptive toolpathing.... my best results have been trying to mimic adaptive by machining a pocket so all the successive cuts are only cutting on one side, and then using a .015" finish pass. how deep are you cutting, I have done 3/4" deep so far
|
|
|
Post by seanathan on Nov 15, 2019 21:24:11 GMT -5
I'm only cutting .188 (3/16) reliably so far. I just snapped another bit but it was a cheap yonico o flute knock off. For some reason I had thought it was my amana.
Regardless...I swapped to a new onsrud o flute for aluminum and it cut amazingly. No taper and a decent surface finish (for a router). I was completely blown away at the difference in performance and will stick with that for awhile.
|
|
|
Post by buildswithbrian on Nov 21, 2019 6:49:40 GMT -5
I'm only cutting .188 (3/16) reliably so far. I just snapped another bit but it was a cheap yonico o flute knock off. For some reason I had thought it was my amana. Regardless...I swapped to a new onsrud o flute for aluminum and it cut amazingly. No taper and a decent surface finish (for a router). I was completely blown away at the difference in performance and will stick with that for awhile. I mostly use Onsrud "o" flutes for my plastic cutting when I need an awesome clean finish. I have a couple amana "o" flutes for aluminum, but I am to scared to use them yet they are pricey. perhaps after I feel I have mastered the feeds and speeds, I will try them out.
|
|
|
Post by bummer on Dec 24, 2019 8:04:23 GMT -5
I have been machining aluminum for may years,when cutting it, heat is your enemy, aluminum heats up very quickly and tends to stick to the cutter. I use compressed air to try to keep the cutter and the aluminum as cool as possible,it also gets the chips out of the tool path, Try conventional milling then allow .005-.010 for a finish pass reverse direction (climb milling) after allowing the piece to cool down. When machining in a machine shop flood cooling is the preferred method, not practical on a cnc router so air is probably you best bet.
|
|