|
|
Post by ricphoto on Mar 15, 2018 22:59:20 GMT -5
and suddenly I have a ticking sound during "Y" axis moves...
Just noticed a new sound from my 1 month old AR8 Pro+...during moves, mainly on the Y axis I have a "ticking" sound...not really loud but I can hear it over the spindle..
any clue where to start looking or what it could be?
Hate to shut down near the end of a 6 hour cut but....
|
|
|
|
Post by arsystems on Mar 15, 2018 23:15:13 GMT -5
spray some WD on the ball screw maybe? is there dust/chips on the ball screws?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2018 7:13:03 GMT -5
Look for a broken coupler.
|
|
|
|
Post by ricphoto on Mar 16, 2018 8:18:13 GMT -5
Thanks guys...I'll be checking it over this morning...
|
|
|
|
Post by aluomala on Mar 17, 2018 10:53:12 GMT -5
When I had a broken coupler on my Z-axis, I heard a clicking noise. If you look at the coupler, the red pieces (I assume that they are all red) must act as some form of bushing/shock-absorber/etc, and once they break off, the 2 pieces will bang against each other, creating that clicking sound (one piece, being attached to the motor, spinning and hitting the other piece that is attached to the rod). I wasn't sure what a "broken coupler" was going to look like: I assumed it would be chunks of aluminum, but apparently, it is chunks of plastic. Look for red wedges of plastic under your machine.
Oddly enough, I didn't experience any NOTICEABLE degradation of my cut (maybe because any error one way, was mitigated when the z-axis spun the other way the same amount.... I am not an engineer). Once I realized that I was up that infamous creek, I decided to change out the coupler (I had ordered 5 whilst waiting for my machine to be delivered) by setting a break point, and dismantling the stepper motor from the z-axis and swapping out the coupler (the thing that took the most time was undering allen screws for motor mount... buy LONG allen keys), and resuming my cut from the break point (after homing and resetting the z-zero, of course). There was a noticeable line where I restarted, so I just restarted the whole finish pass from the beginning, but setting my z-zero a hair lower.
Allan
|
|
|
|
Post by ricphoto on Mar 17, 2018 14:06:00 GMT -5
When I had a broken coupler on my Z-axis, I heard a clicking noise. If you look at the coupler, the red pieces (I assume that they are all red) must act as some form of bushing/shock-absorber/etc, and once they break off, the 2 pieces will bang against each other, creating that clicking sound (one piece, being attached to the motor, spinning and hitting the other piece that is attached to the rod). I wasn't sure what a "broken coupler" was going to look like: I assumed it would be chunks of aluminum, but apparently, it is chunks of plastic. Look for red wedges of plastic under your machine. Oddly enough, I didn't experience any NOTICEABLE degradation of my cut (maybe because any error one way, was mitigated when the z-axis spun the other way the same amount.... I am not an engineer). Once I realized that I was up that infamous creek, I decided to change out the coupler (I had ordered 5 whilst waiting for my machine to be delivered) by setting a break point, and dismantling the stepper motor from the z-axis and swapping out the coupler (the thing that took the most time was undering allen screws for motor mount... buy LONG allen keys), and resuming my cut from the break point (after homing and resetting the z-zero, of course). There was a noticeable line where I restarted, so I just restarted the whole finish pass from the beginning, but setting my z-zero a hair lower. Allan Thanks Allan... So if I understand correctly I can stop the finish pass that isn't working (cutting air) using "break point" then be able to reset the Z Zero and re-start the cut over? When I tried with a "pause" (think thats what it was) the spindle didn't stop turning so there was no chance of re-setting the Z zero a hair lower... BTW: a run through tightening all of the couplers and a blow-out and wipe down of all the tracks and lead screws seems to have stopped the ticking...nothing seemed lose or out of place so I'm baffled and will keep a close ear on it... |
|
|
|
Post by stevem on Mar 17, 2018 14:16:22 GMT -5
I had a ticking in my X axis. I took the right side cover off and put some 3 in one oil all over the bearing. After a day or so, the ticking went away. That was 3 months ago.
|
|
|
|
Post by Axiom Tool Group on Mar 22, 2018 14:43:07 GMT -5
Ticking (clicking) noises can come from many locations. It may be possible that the ball-nut itself is in need of lubrication. Especially if the ball screw has not had regular lubrication with light machine oil....a dry ball screw will cause the grease in the ball nut which coats the bearings to stick to the screw.
this will eventually result in less grease in that bearing assembly.
The end result is that when the bearing recirculate through the channels, a clicking noise is present.
Inserting some Low Temperature, General Purpose grease into the ball nut can help with this. But it can not be stress enough that the correct grease and light pressure must be used to prevent problems or damage to seals.
|
|
|
|
Post by ricphoto on Mar 27, 2018 23:17:23 GMT -5
Thanks all...
It seemed to go away after a pretty diligent clean and lube with 3:1 oil...then came back tonight after about 3 or 4 8-12 hour cuts...I tracked the sound to the rear of the "Y" axis area and will be chasing that down more in the morning...
Still wondering what the:
"correct grease and light pressure must be used to prevent problems or damage to seals" is...
|
|
|
|
Post by gerry on Mar 28, 2018 3:05:02 GMT -5
Thanks all... Still wondering what the: "correct grease and light pressure must be used to prevent problems or damage to seals" is... I clean and apply the oil at every startup. It only takes 2 minutes. This was mentioned by RetiredAFChief: Don't get too over zealous with the pressure from the grease gun. Too much pressure will blow the seals out. |
|
|
|
Post by stevem on Mar 28, 2018 9:41:26 GMT -5
How do you get at the grease fittings to lube them?
I can't get the gun nipple on the fitting! The fittings are tucked into places that the gun simply doesn't fit.
|
|
|
|
Post by BigMoose on Mar 28, 2018 11:13:51 GMT -5
How do you get at the grease fittings to lube them? I can't get the gun nipple on the fitting! The fittings are tucked into places that the gun simply doesn't fit. I saw a post from Axiom that said they are supposed to pivot out so you can access them. I havent tried yet so I dont know for sure. |
|
|
|
Post by stevem on Mar 28, 2018 12:18:20 GMT -5
For now, I'll just use the 3 in 1 oil, but will consider the grease in the future.
The other day, after a 5 1/2 hour V-carve cut, the Y axis started to click. Five minutes later it stopped and hasn't started up again. Go figure!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by scg804 on May 16, 2018 20:59:00 GMT -5
That was my first, " oh ##!/" moment. Y axis moved about a 3rd of the total Y travel then clicked alot. Finally, it just wouldn't move. Isolated problem to my chain linked hose protector underneath the AR8 PRO. The hose protector/holder is hinged like a bike chain. Mine ended up binding in the straight position after setting the machine Home/origin. Basically, it hyper extended the hose chain and kept it from bending during Y axis travel. I looked under the machine, pushed the hose protector out of its straight bound position and back to the natural bend position. No more problems. Let me know if this helps anyone.
|
|
|
|
Post by RetiredAFChief on Jul 7, 2018 19:48:56 GMT -5
How do you get at the grease fittings to lube them? I can't get the gun nipple on the fitting! The fittings are tucked into places that the gun simply doesn't fit. I saw a post from Axiom that said they are supposed to pivot out so you can access them. I havent tried yet so I dont know for sure. I was able to grease my X and Y axis with the grease fitting swiveling out. For the Z (I have the AR 4 basic) I had to remove 4 cap screws hold the ball nut assembly (14) to the rear motor holder. The biggest thing is do not pull the ball screw out of the ball nut. What I did is I had a long bit in the router and lowered the Z till the bit contacted the table. Removed the 4 screws and was able to get the grease gun on the fitting and grease inside. Its pretty simple once you do it but to me it was a bit intimidating first time (funny fixed jets for 30 years never flinched but cnc was intimidating LOL). If you wish drop me a line and provide me an email address and I will hare the email Chad sent to me on how to do it and what grease to use....
(14) is referencing the screws in the illustrated parts breakdown in the back of the owners manual.
|
|
