Incremental 'Z axis' adjustments (how to).

[nlalston]

Hello all.

First, I have stepped into the 'Shou-Sugi-Ban' method of characterizing some of my wood plaques, and signs - before carving.   I really like the look, and so does my customers.  However, I think that the heat treatment is causing some issues with the dimensional aspects of some wood pieces.  I start out with flat work pieces, and apply the Shou-Sugi-Ban treatment to BOTH sides, as well as ALL edges (in hopes of evening out the moisture content.  During the carving procedure, I have (at times) been met with situations where all elements (particularly the text, and some finer lined tool-pathings) to either carve very shallow - or not carve at all (just air carving being noted).  At those times I would pull the file back into my computer, remove all the tool paths - outside of what was was needed to be re-addressed,; lower the bit (via software), and run that file area again.  BUT, after having done that, is there a way that I can make the slightest descent - with the controller, itself?  Right now, I would have to repeat that 'back & forth' traveling to, and from my computer - if it would take multiple steps to meet with the proper depth for a proper carve, on those affected areas. 


Advanced thanks.


Nathan 

[Chad]

Nathan, you can move the tooling away from the material....and lower the bit below the Z0.00 location and reset the Z-0.

For instance, if you want to simply lower the Z by 0.1mm...move the spindle so it can be lowered without contacting the material. Then jog the Z-axis downward until the controller reads Z-0.100 and then use the Z-0 button to manually set this as the new location.


*This will lower everything that is being cut with that tool-path.

If you simply need to cut a single letter or word deeper, you will need to go back to the computer.

[nlalston]

Jun 4, 2021 7:13:59 GMT -5 Chad said:

Nathan, you can move the tooling away from the material....and lower the bit below the Z0.00 location and reset the Z-0.

For instance, if you want to simply lower the Z by 0.1mm...move the spindle so it can be lowered without contacting the material. Then jog the Z-axis downward until the controller reads Z-0.100 and then use the Z-0 button to manually set this as the new location.


*This will lower everything that is being cut with that tool-path.

If you simply need to cut a single letter or word deeper, you will need to go back to the computer.

Ahh - so THAT's it  .  What you have just given is going to help me, immensely.  It will surely save me time - and 'traveling'  .  

I thank you much.

[johnb]

Nathan. I'm intrigued by what you've described. Do you have pictures of projects somewhere?

[nlalston]

Jun 5, 2021 11:18:08 GMT -5 johnb said:

Nathan. I'm intrigued by what you've described. Do you have pictures of projects somewhere?

Yes, John.

I have attached a pic of a wedding sign that I carved for one of my wife's Nephews (and his Bride to be), who's getting married next month.  The cell phone's camera didn't do a grand job of capturing it, but the sign came out looking surprisingly nice.  As had been mentioned, it was heat treated via the Shou Sugi Ban method.  I also gave it a coat of a dark gel stain, then topped it with a wiping poly.  

[johnb]

Nathan...to clarify, it looks like you applied the poly before carving and left the letters "raw"...correct?

[nlalston]

Jun 20, 2021 8:37:01 GMT -5 johnb said:

Nathan...to clarify, it looks like you applied the poly before carving and left the letters "raw"...correct?

Yes, that IS what was done.  

It was my very first time, using a wipe-on poly, and (if memory serves me correct) I think that I applied 4-5 light coats of it.  Because of the letters , and art being raw, I went over everything with a couple coats of lacquer.  Proper finishing techniques is the least of my talents, and I had wondered if the 'rawness' of those carved-out elements might spell issues, in some way.  I have some 'boning up' to do - with regards to arming myself with a greater understanding of such things .

[johnb]

"Issues over time"...I would expect a darkening of the unstained cuts over time.

[nlalston]

Jun 21, 2021 8:13:30 GMT -5 johnb said:

"Issues over time"...I would expect a darkening of the unstained cuts over time.

See?  We learn something every day .  I hadn't even considered THAT.  Do you think that the coats of lacquer ( which was the very last step) might serve to defeat a darkening of those carvings - at least to some mentionable degree?  If not, I may have to re-carve.  

[johnb]

Probably not, absent some kind of UV stabilizer that will darken it on its own. I covered the entire living room of my previous home in 3/8" T&G beaded board strips (10 ft to plate line, two gable ends to 16'), didn't stain it and sprayed the whole thing with sanding sealer (it's really easy to repair any dings...used it on the kitchen cabinets as well). I didn't really "notice" it darkening over time, but when we sold the house 22 years later and moved out, every place a picture was hung had a much lighter spot behind it. Note that there was no direct sunlight into this room. Wide porches with overhangs, only two windows (onto the porches) a french door and a leaded glass door...and drapes that were not always open.

I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't re-carve, but I wouldn't hang it in direct light either. There will always be a distinction from the "burning" you did.

[nlalston]

Jun 21, 2021 18:48:53 GMT -5 johnb said:

I wouldn't re-carve, but I wouldn't hang it in direct light either. There will always be a distinction from the "burning" you did.

Thanks, for this. It's good to know that a reference re-carve isn't really warranted. I WILL, however, leave notice as to not hanging the sign in direct sunlight.

Much appreciated.