Question on hold down clamps.

[nlalston]

I have seen where a number of users have hold down clamps with rubber 'boots' on their ends.  I know that they can be purchased so outfitted, but I already have four that came bare of same.  I would like to avail myself of said 'rubber boots' for my clamps, and have searched for them.  However, I was unable to find a lead, anywhere.   I had thought about, maybe, using some of that Plastic-Dip stuff, but - as I'd have no real use for the balance of it - most of it would go to waste, by drying up. But, if those items ARE available, in separate fashion, (and if anyone knows where) I would appreciate a direction to follow for getting them.

Advanced thanks.

[gerry]

You could 3D print them. I wouldn't bother, the clamps are in the scrap area. And if it really matters, I'd just use tape and super glue.

[nlalston]

Dec 12, 2020 2:33:24 GMT -5 gerry said:

You could 3D print them. I wouldn't bother, the clamps are in the scrap area. And if it really matters, I'd just use tape and super glue.

Thanks gerry.  Of the two methods that you've mentioned, only one is available to me.  I do not have a 3D printer, so that's out of the equation.  Super glue, and tape? Yes, I've been using that, but find the smell of it to be quite offensive - so much so, that I would much rather utilize other options - such as 'brads'.  I don't just use my four clamps for my CNC operations but, also, for other woodworking projects.  It would be nice to be able to hold down an actual project piece without the possibility of marring its face by the metal clamp's ends.    

[johnb]

I have successfully "saved" unused Plasti-Dip for LONG periods of time by tightly pulling plastic food wrap over the top of the can before replacing the (not airtight) plastic cap that is provided with it...or just think of some other way to "use up" what's left. Wooden screwdriver handle that's always been uncomfortable? Crescent wrench handles? Slip joint pliers? That one key you're always looking for on the key ring? The dog collar "size keeper" that keeps sliding and loosening up? Phone charger cords (where it enters the plug and always frays...tape off the electrical connections first). The bottom of the cup holder in the car that you use for spare change etc that's always rattling and vibrating in the bottom of the cup holder. Teenager in the house?...buy the red and frustrate him by re-sealing the top on your Maker's Mark bottle. I would think that the rattle cans of this stuff would make a lot more mess and end up costing more, but that's an option too. Since it only costs about $7 at Lowe's or Home Depot, surely you can think of enough things to make it worth the cost.

[nlalston]

Thank you, John.
Your suggestions did open my eyes to some things that I hadn't considered before - regarding usage ideas for that plastic dip. And, yes - at $7 (or thereabouts) a can, we're not talking about a great expense outlay. I also appreciate what you've shared regarding extending the shelf life of that stuff. I'll be getting a can, today. Again, thanks much.

[damonlayne]

If you find a site that sells replacement t-slot bolts for the hold-down clamps, please share with the forum. The closest I have found are the Rockler brand, however; 'close' isn't what I need. I believe the Axiom t-slot bolts are 8.5mm with a thread size of 20.

Axiom does not sell the replacement parts and I would like to have replacement bolts/knobs on hand for when they strip out. Thnx.

[Bob]

I use brass 5/16 toilet bowl bolts for my clamps. I get them at my local hardware store. I haven't hit one yet with a cutter, but there is less chance of damage to the bit than hitting a steel bolt. I also make my own hardwood clamps. They work very well, and don't damage bits either. I don't even use the steel clamps that came with the machine. For clamp knobs, I use the kind where you press fit the proper sized nut into the knob body.

[christcrosscrafts]

Plasti dip as mentioned above, but I've had better success with Flex seal. Their spray is heavier- bodied than plasti-dip and hold up better. I've actually used it on my wood hold down clamps. I stopped buying the aluminum ones because it's cheaper to make them from scrap. Plus, it doesn't hurt the bits when ya hit 'em.

[Barry K]

Gerry has it right the best way to hold down is with masking tape and activated glue , Works great

[nlalston]

Jan 19, 2021 21:31:59 GMT -5 Barry K said:

Gerry has it right the best way to hold down is with masking tape and activated glue , Works great

Yes. The CA glue method works remarkably well. If it were not for my sensitivity to its generated odor, it is the method that I would have continued using. I have wondered if all CA glues share the exact same property makeup, which causes the stench that I've experienced. I just did a little research on that, and came across the following:

UFO - User Friendly Odorless glues.

Now, I didn't have the time to read the whole article, as yet. But I will. I DID see where its curing time was longer, then for the regular CA glues. But, if that's too be the ONLY shortcoming, then it's something that I can work with. Has anyone else tried this particular glue? Or similar?

[mcraigchr]

Jan 19, 2021 21:31:59 GMT -5 Barry K said:

Gerry has it right the best way to hold down is with masking tape and activated glue , Works great

Sorry ... total noob here.  What exactly is the "masking tape and activated glue" method?  (I know what the glue is, BTW.  Just not how you are using it.)

I like the hold down clamps that I got with the AR8Pro.  They work great except for one thing ... I am about to start working on material that is 2"-4" in thickness.  My clamps will not work.  So, I was hoping to find some that were made for thicker material.  Any suggestions?


CC  

[gerry]

I use it on hard to hold, thin stock, small stuff, and stuff where I want a nice finished edge off the CNC. DO USE A ROLLER. I also use a oversized, flattened piece of MDF with plastic nails, screws, or nails. That gets chewed up instead of spoil board.

Crazy glue and blue tape

[mcraigchr]

Jan 20, 2021 17:37:09 GMT -5 gerry said:

I use it on hard to hold, thin stock, small stuff, and stuff where I want a nice finished edge off the CNC. DO USE A ROLLER. I also use a oversized, flattened piece of MDF with plastic nails, screws, or nails. That gets chewed up instead of spoil board.

Crazy glue and blue tape

Interesting.  I wouldn't think, like most people that see this I bet, that the masking tape is strong enough to hold to the spoil board or the work piece.  But, this guy insists that it does.

So, I will try this.  Thanks so much for the information.

CC

[nlalston]

Jan 21, 2021 9:42:34 GMT -5 mcraigchr said:

Jan 20, 2021 17:37:09 GMT -5 gerry said:

I use it on hard to hold, thin stock, small stuff, and stuff where I want a nice finished edge off the CNC. DO USE A ROLLER. I also use a oversized, flattened piece of MDF with plastic nails, screws, or nails. That gets chewed up instead of spoil board.

Crazy glue and blue tape

Interesting.  I wouldn't think, like most people that see this I bet, that the masking tape is strong enough to hold to the spoil board or the work piece.  But, this guy insists that it does.

So, I will try this.  Thanks so much for the information.

CC

BELIEVE IT .  That combination offers herculean strength capabilities, and I REALLY fought to keep a working relationship with it.  That masking tape - being so thin, and easy to tear - would lead anyone to question its ability to hold as it does, in such an application.  If you decide to give it a go, heed what gerry said regarding using a roller.  I have a J-roller that I'd bought, years ago, for contact cement works, and was using that when I got my CNC, and learned about that stock holding manner.  If there isn't such a thing as a different CA glue product which is less 'smelly', I may look into some type of odor extracting setup which would allow me to go back to using the marriage of CA glue and masking tape.  Not ALL people are sensitive to it, and you may not be.  You might want to give it a shot.  It is definitely worth trying it.  Good luck.

[zmuda01]

I have ran 1/2 up cut 2 flute end mill, 1/2 depth of cut and, .245 step over at 100 ipm and 15000 rpm in hard maple using painters tape and CA glue many many times and have never had an incident. Conversely I have glued down a 1/4" thick panel and left it for the morning only to find the panel warped as it sat and the tape pulled up. So, in my experience the tape is really good at resisting lateral force, not so keen at opposing force.

I suppose there is a difference in strength among the various brands of tape.  I have always used 3M blue tape from Lowes. 

[gerry]

Jan 21, 2021 13:39:41 GMT -5 zmuda01 said:

I suppose there is a difference in strength among the various brands of tape.  I have always used 3M blue tape from Lowes.  

That's where the roller comes in. Also, I vacuum brush the area to remove ALL dust before taping.

[zmuda01]

Jan 21, 2021 13:39:41 GMT -5 zmuda01 said:

I have ran 1/2 up cut 2 flute end mill, 1/2 depth of cut and, .245 step over at 100 ipm and 15000 rpm in hard maple

I checked on these numbers this evening and i have a substantial correction. The depth of cut is .250 and the feed rate was 40. Big difference. My bad.