A month or so ago my Touch Plate on my AR Pro 8 stopped working. The router bit would descend slowly toward it like normal, but instead of stopping when it hit it, it would continue to barrel down as if the touch plate wasn't there (causing damage to the bit and leaving a mark in the touch plate). Tried a few times with a few different bits, including resetting the machine, etc. So I manually zeroed the Z axis by slowly lowering the bit to the wood myself.
Fast forward this weekend, I test the touch plate again a few times and the first few times it doesn't work, but then suddenly it worked for maybe one or two times, then again it doesn't work.
Any idea what might be wrong with it, and also can I replace it? I bought my machine 2 years ago so it probably isn't under warranty which sucks, but I'd like to get a working one. And if I can't from Axiom, could I get a 3rd party one or a Powermatic one? Thanks for any insight!
You need to check the wire that connects the puck to the machine. It sounds like there is a break in it. It is only a simple single wire that connects the puck to the plug. Unplug the wire from the machine. Connect a VOM meter to each end of the wire and wiggle the wire. It should show continuity. If it doesn't, then replace it with a new wire. On the plug end end it is simply connected to a banana plug. The other end is just pushed into the side of the puck and screwed down. A very simple circuit that is completed between the chuck and the machine.
Thanks for the advice. I also agree that setting manually (now that I've done it ~40 times) actually isn't the end of the world. I'll fiddle with the wire per Gerry's advise and see if I can get it work. Thanks
My puck wire came loose from the puck, 3 days after I started using the machine. Simple to fix though. The paper method does work just fine and I don't think it takes that much longer. Plus you don't have to worry about it not being accurate!
Post by Axiom Tool Group on Feb 25, 2019 16:21:31 GMT -5
There are two things to check...first and most common is the wire in the puck device itself.
Since these are such frequently used part, the wires can become broken....causing communication delays or complications. However, both ends of the device can be opened and the wire replaced or repaired.
A simple continuity test using a voltmeter can be down to check the connection between the two ends. Just be sure to move the device around as the connection may be positional.
The other issue could be at the female connection. Which if you open the gantry upright, you should see that there is a small wire attached to the backside the female plug....if the nut that hold this wire in place is loosened, the communication may be suspect.
My puck stopped working also. Took it apart at the puck end where the connector crimps the wires. There is actually 3 wires inside the sheathing. I twisted them together used a new crimp on connecter and fixed the problem. Mine was working on and off for about a month before it actually stopped working altogether. You would think for the extra little it would cost that a better cable and connection could be used.