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Post by Boingbob on Dec 30, 2018 23:08:01 GMT -5
where do you store puck when machine is running
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Post by gerry on Dec 31, 2018 1:34:52 GMT -5
I keep the puck plugged in and sitting on top of my left gantry. I made a little mdf holder and stuck it down with double sided tape, Cheap, quick, and works fantastic.  |
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Post by Barry K on Jan 1, 2019 15:16:07 GMT -5
Can you leave to connected to the machine when stored?
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Post by gerry on Jan 1, 2019 17:33:07 GMT -5
Yup... No problem. It's only activated when TOOL SET is run.
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Post by jcwoodworking on Jan 1, 2019 18:31:04 GMT -5
I've been meaning to do this as well. I think I will copy your design. Looks simple and effective.
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minn
New Member
Axiom AR-8 Pro+
Posts: 10
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Post by minn on Jan 2, 2019 12:22:41 GMT -5
I have a similar setup for the puck but when X runs to 0, the flexible cable/coolant carrier wants to knock it off. I am thinking off modifying it so the holder either connects to the screw holes holding the left side cover on (but then I may run into it walking around the machine) or connecting it to the front or back of the upright. I hate plugging and unplugging the puck!
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Post by joeblow on Jan 2, 2019 18:15:27 GMT -5
Puck storage attached to front of upright. Works well and not in the way.  Attachments:
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johnb
Full Member
New owner @ March 2019, AR16 Elite, Aspire, 4th Axis & Laser
Posts: 326
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Post by johnb on Jan 2, 2019 19:36:38 GMT -5
hey joeblow
Maybe you did this and I just can't tell with the puck in the holder, but how about maybe milling a pocket into the (what appears to be) flat bottom of the holder for the puck to "nestle into"? You could still grasp it with your finger tips and lift it straight out and then up. I'd be a little afraid that (with that steep angle on the front of the gantry) it might get jostled out and head to the floor (or worse yet, into the work path). I'm getting that there shouldn't be much (if any) any harmonic vibration, but the entire machine is "trying" to move while you're cutting (which is why you use the leveling feet and don't leave it sitting on the casters.)
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Post by joeblow on Jan 3, 2019 7:41:45 GMT -5
Hi John. Yep I probably should have milled a pocket also but I did this very shortly after purchasing my machine when I knew nothing about CNC. Now that I know just a little bit more than nothing I might redo someday. Honestly it has never fallen out or been jostled around in its holder. The old adage....if it works  |
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Post by laflippin on Jan 4, 2019 13:58:04 GMT -5
 I fashioned a small wood shelf for accessories that are in frequent use and attached it to a gantry support using two of the screws that attach a piece of plastic to the gantry support. Nothing fancy, but it is convenient, out of the way of moving parts, and holds bits, puck, pencil, wrenches, etc. as needed. |
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Post by southernginger on Jan 4, 2019 23:36:05 GMT -5
I just use a simple furniture silicone dot on top |
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Post by redwood on Jan 6, 2019 0:39:58 GMT -5
I just stopped using the puck and Zero directly to the surface of the material. Surprisingly, I think I've gotten it down to where I'm just as fast or faster then using the puck and so far, no inaccuracies like I occasionally had using the puck.
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Post by laflippin on Jan 7, 2019 0:00:18 GMT -5
The usual cause of inaccuracy when zeroing the Z-axis is actually from inconsistency in the wood thickness, which obviously wouldn't be solved by use of a puck or by zeroing directly to a single point on the wood surface. Using stock that is milled flat on both top and bottom surfaces I've never seen an issue from Z-axis calibrations with a puck.
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