|
|
Post by parkin79 on Aug 13, 2018 19:53:33 GMT -5
Do you guys use a spoiled board that comes with the machine or do you create your own and attach it to that? right now I have a piece of quarter inch MDF I have double-sided tape holding down on top of the original one. But by doing that I lose all the inside channels to hold and clamp things down. Thoughts.
|
|
|
|
Post by uzumati on Aug 13, 2018 20:09:52 GMT -5
I just use the ones that come with it, when they get cut up beyond resurfacing I’ll just cut some new ones
|
|
|
|
Post by stevem on Aug 13, 2018 20:12:27 GMT -5
I made a spoil board with 3/4" MDF and put T-track in it so I could clamp my work pieces down.
You will find that your spoil board will get well used and an look like crap if you use your machine alot.
I screwed mine down to the spoil strips that came with the machine.
Make sure you surface your new spoil board.
|
|
|
|
Post by gerry on Aug 13, 2018 20:29:08 GMT -5
I use both. I flattened my machine spoil board. Then I cut a piece of 22"x22" 0.75 MDF and clamped that to the machine spoil board. I then flattened that in place. I can now use either surface and be assured of a flat surface. If I'm doing a double sided project, then I plastic nail or screw to the MDF. I use a Omer composite nailer to nail things to the MDF. I also use blue tape and cyanoacrylate to attach thin stock to the MDF. I can also remove the MDF and run projects on the machine spoil board. I don't run things in this manner that require cutting into the spoil board. Things like the cutout profile I run the toolpath from the machine bed. This plays nicely with keeping the spoil board in nice shape (although mistakes do happen  ). I almost never have to flatten the original spoil board. I skim the MDF board when it gets too beat up. When it gets too thin, I glue another 22"x22" MDF board on the top of the one in place. I usually keep the MDF in the 1"-1.5" thickness range. It only takes a minute to swap between the machine bed spoil board and the MDF spoil board. Large items get cut on the machine bed. Best of both worlds. |
|
|
|
Post by JohnnyBeWood on Aug 30, 2018 7:36:28 GMT -5
I used to lay a piece of 1/2 inch MDF on top of the factory spoil board for all my cut through jobs. I was flattening that when it got too rough, but got tired of doing it and pulling it on and off. I actually had a 1/16 in bit in one time and accidentally grazed it while removing my secondary spoil board and it broke off. I realized its made out of a cheap replaceable material and when the factory one gets too shallow I will remove the t-slot bolts and cut new strips out of some new material. I plan on using a 3/4 in piece and utilizing the old pieces as a guide for the screw holes.
|
|
|
|
Post by redwood on Aug 30, 2018 10:56:13 GMT -5
I'm not sure of the reasoning of adding a 2nd spoil board on top of the first one. The original is called a spoil board for a reason. I've had my AR6 for 2.5+ years now and yes my spoil board looks crappy, but it still serves it's function, just fine. I've resurfaced it twice in that time. I also use the t-tracks for my holdowns and I would lose that functionality with a solid board on top.
|
|
|
|
Post by gerry on Aug 30, 2018 14:33:28 GMT -5
I'm not sure of the reasoning of adding a 2nd spoil board on top of the first one. The original is called a spoil board for a reason. I've had my AR6 for 2.5+ years now and yes my spoil board looks crappy, but it still serves it's function, just fine. I've resurfaced it twice in that time. I also use the t-tracks for my holdowns and I would lose that functionality with a solid board on top. The point is that a spoil board that uses clamps isn't always the best choice. Sometimes I'll want tape and crazy glue to fixture a piece, like when I'm cutting hinges and don't want any tabs. When I'm doing two sided cuts, I'll drill 1/4" into the spoil board for location pins, plus drill 4 screw holes. Those are best done on a throw away spoil board. The original spoil board is used because clamps are fast, and you don't machine into them is you set your toolpath on "Machine Bed". The other day I set up the machine to cut some Christmas dishes. I cut the wood the same size, then set up positioning via the clamps in the Axiom Auto-Adjust Clamping kit. A dozen pieces machined without re-adjusting anything. Release clamps, swap boards, slide board into alignment clamps, and press GO again. Swapping from solid top to t-track takes less than a minute. |
|
). I almost never have to flatten the original spoil board. I skim the MDF board when it gets too beat up. When it gets too thin, I glue another 22"x22" MDF board on the top of the one in place. I usually keep the MDF in the 1"-1.5" thickness range.
