Leaving the machine unattended... I do it, you?

[chrisn]

Break Points... I have seen these opportunities during the "OH Sh!t" moments.. But that is a very "On Point" (see what I did there.. lol) to the subject. Maybe dont leave it running but have it wait for you to return...

Does this break point stay even if you turn off the machine?

Hmm even as I ask this question, I have noticed X and Y tend to wander if the machine is off over night. Anybody else notice this? Maybe a Break Point would help.

[grg]

Jun 22, 2018 12:03:18 GMT -5 chrisn said:

Break Points... I have seen these opportunities during the "OH Sh!t" moments.. But that is a very "On Point" (see what I did there.. lol) to the subject. Maybe dont leave it running but have it wait for you to return...

Does this break point stay even if you turn off the machine?

Hmm even as I ask this question, I have noticed X and Y tend to wander if the machine is off over night. Anybody else notice this? Maybe a Break Point would help.

I haven't noticed X and Y drifting - but the Z will definitely drift downward without power when the drive isn't actively parking the motor.  However, if you just re-home X,Y,Z on power up, it will still remember the correct index point and you can pickup the break point from where it left off even after re-homing.

[Deleted]

A new video about leaving your machine alone:

[edgemaker1]

I’m debating the purchase of a 24x48 as a hobbie.

As a career firefighter, I would leave one unattended in my attached garage with 3 items:
1. A web cam
2. A linked smoke detector- when the smoke detector alerts above the CNC it will also sound the heads in the house, and or WiFi enabled.
3. A mocked up sprinkler head: I’ll get a sprinkler head from a local install shop, install it attached to a garden hose. One head would be plenty- for my piece of mind.
(Think over head dust collection arm, made out of 3/4” PVC, or upside down J sprinkler head at the working end, centered over the machine, garden hose adapter at the floor.)

Additionally, I can attest people leave all sorts of machines unattended that start fires: coffee makers, clothing dryers, fire place, battery chargers.

My suggestion would be if you’re using it “for hire” you should call your agent. If you’re for hire it will probably be most economical to list is on the business policy as an “Inland Marine” piece of equipment.

Otherwise, the person (fean) on page two hits the highlights of personal lines as I see them.

Thanks for sharing on this forum, I’m learning a lot.


Note: As I type this response, another thought comes to mine. I guess I would also invest in a CO extinguisher for the garage. An attended event would be better mitigated with a CO extinguisher. Causing less damage to the electronic components during extinguishment.

[johnb]

Shucks, edgemaker1...I would think that a career firefighter could locate a secondhand halon system somewhere (They won't let it be manufactured and sold anymore, but you can "own and use what's out there")

A halon system in your contained garage space would auto-trigger (maybe from a fusible link on the gantry) and then kill the fire without damaging anything. I have one in the engine compartment of my boat. A relatively small "bottle" is enough to kill a 50 hp diesel engine running wide open along with any fire ...and the engine compartment is, by no means, a "closed space" as it has inlet air for the engine coming from outside at all times. (You're supposed to pull the kill switch to the diesel fuel intake in the event of fire "below", but it's my understanding that, in many/most cases, you don't have to.)

All of those upper floors in the University of Texas "tower" are/were filled with (mostly rare) books. Through the 70's there were signs everywhere that read to the effect that...if the fire alarm went off, you had 30 seconds to get into a stairwell or you were dead! (Halon works by displacing oxygen, choking out the fire (and any living thing in a contained space) instantly.). I'm sure they pulled all that out long ago in favor of something less deadly (and less effective). Halon is not totally inert, the halon is toxic...and deadly

If you're gonna go ahead and build the plumbing for the sprinkler head, why not just run the piping back to some (available) water line in or on the house or in the garage? Garden hoses, like washing machine hoses, tend to burst at inopportune and (mostly) unattended times. The resulting deluge would not be worth it.


As for the CO2...buy more than one.

[joeblow]

Dec 28, 2018 17:37:09 GMT -5 edgemaker1 said:

Note: As I type this response, another thought comes to mine. I guess I would also invest in a CO extinguisher for the garage. An attended event would be better mitigated with a CO extinguisher. Causing less damage to the electronic components during extinguishment.

Thanks for this tip.  I don't know anything about fire extinguishers.  I have a 5 1/2lb Kidde Multipurpose Dry Chemical extinguisher in the shop.  Would that be similar to the CO extinguisher in regards to "causing less damage to the electronic components..."?

[uzumati]

Regular dry chem extinguishers would be a nightmare to clean up after since that powder just packs in to smother the fire. A CO2 extinguisher eliminates the oxygen from the equation smothering the fire but condensation when it evaporates could be an issue for sensitive electronics. A Halon system very effectively eliminates the oxygen smothering the fire but in a confined space you will need some type of air respirator.

[edgemaker1]

Dec 30, 2018 12:34:31 GMT -5 johnb said:

Shucks, edgemaker1...I would think that a career firefighter could locate a secondhand halon system somewhere (They won't let it be manufactured and sold anymore, but you can "own and use what's out there")

A halon system in your contained garage space would auto-trigger (maybe from a fusible link on the gantry) and then kill the fire without damaging anything. I have one in the engine compartment of my boat. A relatively small "bottle" is enough to kill a 50 hp diesel engine running wide open along with any fire ...and the engine compartment is, by no means, a "closed space" as it has inlet air for the engine coming from outside at all times. (You're supposed to pull the kill switch to the diesel fuel intake in the event of fire "below", but it's my understanding that, in many/most cases, you don't have to.)

All of those upper floors in the University of Texas "tower" are/were filled with (mostly rare) books. Through the 70's there were signs everywhere that read to the effect that...if the fire alarm went off, you had 30 seconds to get into a stairwell or you were dead! (Halon works by displacing oxygen, choking out the fire (and any living thing in a contained space) instantly.). I'm sure they pulled all that out long ago in favor of something less deadly (and less effective). Halon is not totally inert, the halon is toxic...and deadly

If you're gonna go ahead and build the plumbing for the sprinkler head, why not just run the piping back to some (available) water line in or on the house or in the garage? Garden hoses, like washing machine hoses, tend to burst at inopportune and (mostly) unattended times. The resulting deluge would not be worth it.


As for the CO2...buy more than one.

I’m glad you are comfortable using Halon.
I assume you’re using 1211.  I agree, it would work fantastic.


The arrangement I described could be completed for under $20 and an hour of time.  

If I get a machine, the table will be located next to a garden hose spicet. I’d only hook it up, if I was leaving the property and running the machine.  

otherwise, my wife is in insurance, we’re well covered, it is all replaceable, as long as the loved ones are out of the house, it can burn.  
Detection, is more important than extinguishment for that reason.

I have faith in the one-hour wall between in the garage and living space.

IMO, 1 extinguisher is plenty.

Post some pix when you build your halon system, that will be interesting.
Thanks for sharing.