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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2017 21:25:02 GMT -5
Silly question, having trouble finding relevant information. The user guide suggests WD40. Is this the best solution during winter months (garage kept, freezing temps) and what disposable cloth to use for wipe down? Can I use paper towel?
Thank you Andy
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Post by gerry on Dec 15, 2017 22:18:23 GMT -5
Chad recommended using 3-in-one oil on a rag. I wipe the screws and rails daily before I start.
I would not use any paper towels. They would tend to shred into the drive mechanisms. I keep an oily rag in a tin box just for that purpose.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2017 9:20:46 GMT -5
When WD-40 dries it leaves behind a shellac. Just fill the cap up a quarter inch and let it evaporate, which will take days or weeks, and then you can pop out a hard amber plug.
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Post by stevem on Dec 16, 2017 10:44:39 GMT -5
I would possibly use the WD40 on a rag to clean stuff off, or some other cleaner, but 3 in one is an actual oil for the ball screws.
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Post by tmcrocker on Feb 23, 2018 5:25:18 GMT -5
I use white lithium grease from a squeeze tube wiped on with a paper shop towel. I am not worried about paper fibers from the shop towel because they are tougher than a kitchen paper towel.
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Post by gerry on Feb 23, 2018 14:23:51 GMT -5
Chad recommended using 3-in-one oil on a rag. I wipe the screws and rails daily before I start. I would not use any paper towels. They would tend to shred into the drive mechanisms. I keep an oily rag in a tin box just for that purpose. I use the same procedure. I keep my oily red shop rag stored in a metal can with lid that is used just for that purpose.
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Mar 22, 2018 8:17:30 GMT -5
So the ball-screw/guide manufacturer recommends a topical application of a light machine oil, applied daily when the machine is in use. Hence our recommendation fro 3-in-1 oil or some other similar light machine oil.
As others have mentioned WD-40 evaporates and leaves buildup behind. With other lubricants like dry Teflon and silicone building up over time as well.
Problems can occur due to this build up as the tolerance between the ball-screw and bearings is very tight, any build up can cause this to tolerance to tighten further and increase the potential for stepper motor stall.
The other risk is that the internal grease in the ball nut (bearing) is an oil based, low temperature grease....exposure to lubricants not compatible can cause it to thicken and become hard to move...or to break down resulting in a dry bearing.
In addition to topical application of a light machine oil, the ball screw manufacturer recommends the occasional (once every 2-3 months for heavy use....once every 6-12 months for moderate to light use) lubrication of the ball-nut via the grease fittings which are found on machines produced in the last couple years.
It can be difficult to do this as the grease fitting is not super easy to access.
As small grease gun is recommended....you must be careful to not put too much pressure on the bearing so as to avoid damage to the seal. In this respect the small grease guns are ideal.
You should be able to turn the grease fitting to raise it out of the recess that protects it...giving you room to get the grease gun on the fitting.
*Low Temperature, General Purpose grease must be used....preferably mineral oil or synthetic based* Lucas Oil Company makes a good version
If you absolutely must, the 4 cap-screws can be removed allowing the gantry to be slid away from the ball-nut however some care needs to be taken. In addition, some minor realignment will need to be done as the ball-nut is reattached.
If this must be done, please, give us a call so we can cover all the details.
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jw
New Member
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Post by jw on Mar 26, 2018 9:34:06 GMT -5
I'm assuming we should use the dry lube from 3 in 1, correct?
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Post by gerry on Mar 26, 2018 13:12:43 GMT -5
No. Use plain 3-in-one oil. I keep my oily rag in a metal box near the CNC. I wipe down the rails and screws before every startup.
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Mar 26, 2018 15:07:46 GMT -5
Gerry is correct, you will want to use standard light machine oil....not dry lube which can build and change the bearing tolerances.
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jw
New Member
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Post by jw on Mar 26, 2018 16:45:43 GMT -5
Ok great. Thank you. Now. How about the grease. I am having a tough time navigating the options available. Can you advise which grease from Lucas Oil we should go with?
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Post by RetiredAFChief on Mar 27, 2018 21:47:14 GMT -5
Ok great. Thank you. Now. How about the grease. I am having a tough time navigating the options available. Can you advise which grease from Lucas Oil we should go with? When I spoke to Chad thru email I asked about this grease Lucas Oil X-tra heavy duty grease 10301 - Read Reviews on Lucas Oil #10301 He reply when I asked if that one would worked he said "That is a mineral oil based lubricant….which is actually preferred." so its what I use. I hope this helps....
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Mar 28, 2018 14:36:14 GMT -5
We are testing that grease in house currently as well. It appears to be working very well and is available through nearly every automotive part store.
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