gary
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by gary on Jun 8, 2016 11:59:33 GMT -5
Hi, I am finding that the Z axis touch off program moves too quickly toward the puck and provides too much pressure when setting zero. I am getting small divots in the top of my puck and inaccurate zero heights. Is there a way to reduce the speed and or pressure used for the touch off procedure? Thank you, Gary
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Jun 8, 2016 13:11:43 GMT -5
Of course. Its called Toolset Speed.
To change that setting: While one your main screen, Press MENU and Select the Auto Pro Setup. Scroll down to find Toolset Speed. (Not Toolset Fall) The Default setting is 600.00
*100.00 is barely moving. We'd suggest trying 3-400 first and see how that does for you.*
Remember that if we ever send you a restore file, this will need changed again.
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Bob
Junior Member
Posts: 129
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Post by Bob on Jun 8, 2016 22:13:04 GMT -5
Hi, I am finding that the Z axis touch off program moves too quickly toward the puck and provides too much pressure when setting zero. I am getting small divots in the top of my puck and inaccurate zero heights. Is there a way to reduce the speed and or pressure used for the touch off procedure? Thank you, Gary Gary, Would you please describe the technique that you are using to set Z zero? Thanks, Bob Let's edit my question...Are you manually jogging the bit down to the surface of the puck, then selecting Zzero?
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Post by chrisn on Aug 17, 2016 0:15:28 GMT -5
Cool. I like this one. I'm going to slow mine down just a bit too. Thx. Chris
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Aug 22, 2016 9:22:13 GMT -5
Bob, generally you just place the puck anywhere on the material you are intending to cut. Position the bit above the puck, this can be at the very top of the travel and be inches off the puck.
Then hold down MENU, press ON/OFF and let go of both. The machine will then lower and touch off itself and automatically zero itself out.
When you press the Z-0 button you are manually setting the zero point to the current height of the bit. While this is recommended for some bits, it is not as exact as using the automatic feature when you can.
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gary
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by gary on Jan 17, 2017 10:04:38 GMT -5
Hi, I wanted to give feedback on this. I changed the setting to 300 and the touch off is working much better. If I need to fine tune again I will let you all know.
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Post by moodytx on Feb 28, 2017 21:04:02 GMT -5
Excellent question !! I have the same issue.. little divot marks in the top of the puck .. I will modify the parms given,,, Thank you !!
BTW... should we leave the divots that are already or would it hurt to knock down the high points with a little 400 grit sandpaper?
Bob .. (the other Bob .. lol)
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Mar 21, 2017 12:16:29 GMT -5
We agree that with many bits the default 600 parameter can be a bit fast.
Gary's suggested speed of 300 works much better, but is just slower in travel. This is obviously offset if you lower the bit closer to the puck before beginning the operation.
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Post by cascayou on Apr 10, 2017 8:46:38 GMT -5
I have the same problem on the Elite to the point I stooped using the pod. I can see visually that the head is twisting when reading the zero leaving marks on the pod. The "manual" for the controller is very difficult to understand being a poor translation from another language. If anyone knows how to change the pressure on this pendant I would be greatfull
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zaxis4
Junior Member
Posts: 162
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Post by zaxis4 on Apr 10, 2017 12:05:05 GMT -5
Check out the second post in this thread. Axiom responded awhile back, I had concerns also. Even after slowing down I have found that you still will get some marks in the puck. Sharp carbide pointy things always wins over aluminum. But slowing down does help.
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Post by Axiom Tool Group on Apr 10, 2017 14:13:26 GMT -5
We are working on a solution for the Elite machines and should have an answer shortly.
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Post by tinkirfx on Sept 24, 2017 19:50:04 GMT -5
I was just curious about this as well. I’ll be slowing mine down for sure. I broke the tip of a 4-flute V bit because the touch off was so fast. Wish I saw this thread 2 days ago.
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Post by aluomala on Dec 18, 2017 18:49:36 GMT -5
I have a question regarding this (I have just ordered my machine and won't have it for another month so I want to get up to speed): I have the Amana In-Groove v-bit engraver, and recently purchased some of the 30 degree (15 degree side angle)bits and was concerned that tip might get broken off using the puck (as tinkirfx mentioned above). I don't mind doing the old school (bit of paper) way, but I want to use the available technology if I can to be as accurate as possible (without destroying a $30 insert blade in the process).
Thanks,
Allan
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Post by stevem on Dec 18, 2017 20:06:17 GMT -5
aluomala: The answer you are looking for is answered on the 2nd post of this topic. It works great. You can slow it down that it hardly moves so breaking a bit would be quite difficult.
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Post by aluomala on Dec 18, 2017 20:36:50 GMT -5
aluomala: The answer you are looking for is answered on the 2nd post of this topic. It works great. You can slow it down that it hardly moves so breaking a bit would be quite difficult. In fairness to me (I did read all the posts in the thread: honest!) I was wondering if anybody had ever had it break a bit in practice, not just in theory. I can live with a certain amount of slowness (while it creeps down to the puck) but not if it is a snail's pace. Again, I don't have access to an Axiom (only seen them in action on YouTube videos) so I'm not sure what a "normal" touch-off speed is and how quickly it stops regardless. I was thinking of ways to mitigate the (potential) damage like placing something like tinfoil on the puck so that the sensors detect just a hair above the puck (the height of the tinfoil). Allan
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Post by gerry on Dec 18, 2017 23:09:06 GMT -5
You're over thinking it... It's just an aluminum puck. It's easy to resurface.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2017 8:50:10 GMT -5
You're over thinking it... It's just an aluminum puck. It's easy to resurface. He's not worried about the puck, he's worried about breaking off the 0.005" tip of a $19 insert which is a valid concern. The Piranha has a hard aluminum block which the tip digs into. Other machines I've seen have spring loaded touch off blocks so they go down until it triggers at a reasonable speed, then go up above the touch point and touch a second time at very slow speed.
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Post by stevem on Dec 19, 2017 11:25:01 GMT -5
Once I slowed my Z axis down, I just lower the bit closer to the puck before I zero it. It move slow at 300, but for me it works great. I have never broken a bit with the Z zero process at 300 or what it was originally set for when I first got the machine.
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Post by chuck26287 on Dec 19, 2017 13:02:42 GMT -5
Once I slowed my Z axis down, I just lower the bit closer to the puck before I zero it. It move slow at 300, but for me it works great. I have never broken a bit with the Z zero process at 300 or what it was originally set for when I first got the machine. Exactly what I do. Takes just a second to run the Z down to near the puck surface. Since slowing the touch-off speed and resurfacing the puck (mine looked like a well-worn dog chew toy before resurfacing), you can't tell I've even been using the puck. Don't get any "bounces" anymore, either. Default speed is just too fast, as far as I'm concerned.
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Post by aluomala on Dec 19, 2017 14:47:57 GMT -5
You're over thinking it... It's just an aluminum puck. It's easy to resurface. He's not worried about the puck, he's worried about breaking off the 0.005" tip of a $19 insert which is a valid concern. The Piranha has a hard aluminum block which the tip digs into. Other machines I've seen have spring loaded touch off blocks so they go down until it triggers at a reasonable speed, then go up above the touch point and touch a second time at very slow speed. I think Gerry meant that some people were talking about resurfacing their puck (due to dings and dents from bits), not the bit breakage that I was concerned with.
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Post by neverhappen on Dec 23, 2017 11:55:18 GMT -5
Just a note to those that might want to cut aluminum or aluminum fiber sandwich (can't remember the name), Since the surface is metal, the puck will not ground properly and the "Z" will continue to plunge after it touches the puck. Make sure you place a thin piece of paper between the puck and surface of the material. Trust me the first time this happens you'll freak out!! OR if it's not a critical cut, (Just a cut out of a shape) just march it down to the surface, slowly z-drop with step control the old fashion way with a piece of paper and don't use the puck.
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Post by chuck26287 on Dec 23, 2017 22:44:01 GMT -5
Just a note to those that might want to cut aluminum or aluminum fiber sandwich (can't remember the name), Since the surface is metal, the puck will not ground properly and the "Z" will continue to plunge after it touches the puck. Make sure you place a thin piece of paper between the puck and surface of the material. Trust me the first time this happens you'll freak out!! OR if it's not a critical cut, (Just a cut out of a shape) just march it down to the surface, slowly z-drop with step control the old fashion way with a piece of paper and don't use the puck. I'm not saying you're wrong, as this appears to be experience talking, but I don't see how this could happen, provided your aluminum piece is insulated from any other form of grounding to frame by having an MDF spoil board under it. I have cut pieces from 6061 aluminum stock and set the Z height with the puck without any problems. The only time I've seen what you describe is when I trigger it to set Z height with the puck, and I hadn't plugged the puck in. This is of course a form of what you are saying... the puck isn't properly grounded when it's not plugged in (and you're absolutely right... it will FREAK you out when it happens). I would almost wonder if you had a loose wire connection in the puck? Or, did you have metal clamps that touched the aluminum stock the puck was on, and were also touching the aluminum table channels via the clamp T-Bolts? If the stock is shorted to frame via metal clamps, then maybe that interferes with the grounding. When I have cut aluminum, I have it secured to my MDF spoil board by screwing it down. No metal clamps used at all, so I know I am not shorting my stock to the frame via the table channels. This is kind of interesting. I wonder where our differences in setup are.
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dusty
New Member
Posts: 32
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Post by dusty on Dec 25, 2017 20:43:33 GMT -5
aluomala: The answer you are looking for is answered on the 2nd post of this topic. It works great. You can slow it down that it hardly moves so breaking a bit would be quite difficult. In fairness to me (I did read all the posts in the thread: honest!) I was wondering if anybody had ever had it break a bit in practice, not just in theory. I can live with a certain amount of slowness (while it creeps down to the puck) but not if it is a snail's pace. Again, I don't have access to an Axiom (only seen them in action on YouTube videos) so I'm not sure what a "normal" touch-off speed is and how quickly it stops regardless. I was thinking of ways to mitigate the (potential) damage like placing something like tinfoil on the puck so that the sensors detect just a hair above the puck (the height of the tinfoil). Allan I have used some pretty delicate 1/8" shank bits and have not had any break touching off of the puck. The problem listed here is the divots that the tools create on the top of the puck when they touch off too forcefully. Slowing the Z travel down works perfectly especially since you can set the rate of travel. From the factory, it is set at 600. I reset mine to 400 and notice an improvement. Never tried the tin foil route. Don't need to. Keep life simple and by the way, you're going to love this machine.
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