lesad
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Post by lesad on Jan 27, 2020 19:15:40 GMT -5
It seems that the bits In buy take forever to finish a file . What is your favorite finishing bit? What bits could you not live without?
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Post by gerry on Jan 27, 2020 19:20:49 GMT -5
It seems that the bits In buy take forever to finish a file . ?? Explain with a little more detail. |
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Post by stevem on Jan 27, 2020 19:54:58 GMT -5
Like gerry said!
Depending on what you're cutting, a file can take several hours to cut. When cutting out parts, not so long.
A 1/32 taper ball nose will take a long time when cutting a 3d project. Watching that bit cut is like watching grass growing, but the end result is fantastic and needs no sanding at all.
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johnb
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New owner @ March 2019, AR16 Elite, Aspire, 4th Axis & Laser
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Post by johnb on Jan 27, 2020 20:34:41 GMT -5
Are you starting out with clearing passes with larger end mills? You can clear out a lot of material quickly with a 1/4" end mill, and follow it up with 3/16" and 1/8" before putting in your little bitty bits for the finishing passes. Don't be too aggressive on your depths and feed speeds with the bigger bits so as not to chip out something that should remain.
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Bob
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Post by Bob on Jan 27, 2020 21:05:44 GMT -5
Lesa
If you would post the .crv from one of your slow files it would require less guessing on how to shorten cutting time. Plus what Gerry, Steve, and John said.
Thank you
Bob
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Post by damonlayne on Jan 28, 2020 12:43:00 GMT -5
Hi Lesa. My bit preference depends on the project at hand. A 1/32" ball nose for some nice final detail work on a set of coasters (~4" sq.). For larger plaques, etc, the 1/8" ball nose is nice. Feed rate and pass over % are things I play around with in addition to bit size. If you have questions related to a specific file, drag and drop it in your post and the forum will offer some great advice.
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Post by redwood on Jan 30, 2020 15:04:02 GMT -5
As others have said, it really depends on what you are doing and how detailed you need it. With the same pass over % and feed rate, a 1/32" tapered ball nose will take twice as long as a 1/16" tapered ball nose. Using your preview, you can start with a larger ball nose bit and successively change to a smaller bit until you find the sweet spot, time vs. detail.
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Post by traindriver on Jan 31, 2020 21:27:50 GMT -5
I like using a 1/16" bullnose for 3d stuff like this  _  The drummer ornaments are about 3" x 5" and took roughly 45 minutes for the finish pass at 100 ipm. The Last Supper is about 6" x 10" and took about 6 hours for the finish pass at 100 ipm. While some people think it unwise, I have no problem leaving my machine to run all day while I'm at work or all night. The worst that's happened is I somehow corrupted a file and on my first attempt of the project below, my finish toolpath milled through the project, which is 18" wide and took over 20 hours to finish cut with an 1/8" ball nose end mill and feed rate of 50 ipm.  As to what can I not live without - I love me a 60 degree bit for v-carving and inlays, although recently, I've been using a 45 degree more often for V-carve inlays. |
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johnb
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New owner @ March 2019, AR16 Elite, Aspire, 4th Axis & Laser
Posts: 326
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Post by johnb on Feb 1, 2020 20:29:34 GMT -5
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Post by traindriver on Feb 5, 2020 22:01:46 GMT -5
I've seen the video where the part comes loose and catches fire, if that's what you're referring to. I've had projects that were held down with double sided tape let go at a time when I used a 16 gallon shop vac for dust collection (works pretty good, by the way) and I never saw anything close to what the video showed, even though I was turning the spindle way too fast (didn't realize it at the time) and burning my bits every time I cut. I won't say it can't happen, but after hours of tending my machine through self-inflicted calamities, the worst I've had is broken bits and ruined projects. To be honest, I'm more likely to set the shop on fire grinding or welding.
I do like the ball thing, though. That's a good idea - attached to the gantry, perhaps?
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Post by savannahdan on Feb 7, 2020 8:32:05 GMT -5
I'm one of those who has had an incident with a cnc fire. I was cutting a project on the cnc, walked into the main part of the house (shop is former garage) and my wife heard a change in the sound on the cnc and told me about it. I immediately walked back into the shop to find a fire and some nasty black smoke. I pulled the power cord on the cnc and covered the fire with a handy shop rag. The fire was at the connector cables (x, y, z cables) going into the control box. Mind you this was one of those buy it through the woodworking store cnc's. I've not had any responses from my Axiom of that nature but still feel uncomfortable leaving a long running job without my presence. Now, the subject of this post is favorite ballnose bits. I use 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" ballnose bits more than others. I particularly like the tapered bits and have experienced having a mishap with one of those cutting and it holding up and being able to be used for another project with no issues. I get most of my bits from the cheap buys of of ebay and the tapered bits I bought from Precise Bits.
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Post by Mezalick on Feb 7, 2020 10:02:36 GMT -5
Favorite Ball Nose...... It really depends on the size of the project.... 1/64" to 3" Michael  |
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Post by stevem on Feb 7, 2020 11:59:57 GMT -5
If you are doing some sort of 3d work, you could also check out a tapered ball nose. The taper allows getting into tighter spaces.
I use both straight and taper, depending on the project.
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Post by cncworksdan on Feb 15, 2020 14:38:56 GMT -5
I was running a project 12" x 32" rock maple last supper 3d carved inset centered in project, my opinion was i was good on feeds and speeds with Ammana 1/32 tip bit {looked good I watched for @ 2.5 hrs of a 10hr run, felt very confident to leave it) I did for 9hrs. Probably about 7-8 hrs in tool in collect loosened just enough to drop down into spoilboard and into aluminum table. There was a fare amount of rubbing going on in an arc movement, shaft rubbing of tool caused thick black smoke in shop attached to my house and upper deck pourch. I was running at high speed after reviewed with CHAD at Axiom Tool Group.
I have not had any problems since, But I will be getting AGFA Extinguisher, ball and Train Drivers recommendation to attach to the Gantry is spot on! Thumbs up guys!
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Post by cletus on Mar 7, 2020 16:22:01 GMT -5
I agree with the others. I once used a 1/4 in. end mill and followed up with a 1/32 in. ball nose...big mistake!
I like the 1/32 the best if you do the right prep work. Good luck.
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chipclark2000
New Member
Long time woodworker, furniture maker, new to CNC!
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Post by chipclark2000 on Mar 20, 2020 17:32:19 GMT -5
good grief, it never occurred to me I could do more than one roughing pass to speed things up! brilliance abounds here!
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lesad
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Post by lesad on Mar 21, 2020 13:16:53 GMT -5
Lesa If you would post the .crv from one of your slow files it would require less guessing on how to shorten cutting time. Plus what Gerry, Steve, and John said. Thank you Bob Attachments:
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lesad
New Member
Posts: 50
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Post by lesad on Mar 21, 2020 13:19:34 GMT -5
Lesa If you would post the .crv from one of your slow files it would require less guessing on how to shorten cutting time. Plus what Gerry, Steve, and John said. Thank you Bob Attachments:
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