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Post by branson on Feb 6, 2018 0:01:32 GMT -5
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Post by stevem on Feb 6, 2018 9:57:21 GMT -5
That is super clever! Looks like it will work great
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309cnc
Junior Member
Posts: 124
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Post by 309cnc on Feb 6, 2018 10:43:47 GMT -5
ok, I admit..... it took me a while to get it ;-)
You are mounting a router far enough out in the -y direction to reach / cut the board mounted vertically to the front of the machine...
Very clever indeed....!
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Post by clever... on Feb 6, 2018 12:01:28 GMT -5
great start...I was wondering about doing joinery on these...looks like with the addition of a top board clamp you could also cut blind dovetails...hmmm...thanks for getting my brain going in the right direction ;-)
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Post by ricphoto on Feb 6, 2018 12:03:48 GMT -5
(opps still new so forgot to login...that was me)
great start...I was wondering about doing joinery on these...looks like with the addition of a top board clamp you could also cut blind dovetails...hmmm...thanks for getting my brain going in the right direction ;-)
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Post by branson on Feb 6, 2018 12:28:34 GMT -5
ok, I admit..... it took me a while to get it ;-) You are mounting a router far enough out in the -y direction to reach / cut the board mounted vertically to the front of the machine... Very clever indeed....! Sorry I could have been more specific but it was late when I posted. Yes it now allows me to cut boards vertically up to 44 inches. I’m going to add a jig that allows me to level out the boards I. Relation to the palm router, bit for a proof of concept last night I was extremely happy with the results. I plan to make some double box joints and maybe some dovetail joints with it in the weeks to come.
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Post by gerry on Feb 6, 2018 13:41:11 GMT -5
The next amazing trick is jointing boards. Clamp the board to be jointed on top of another board and have the edge stick out a bit from the bouuom board. Align this board to the axis before final clamp. Position the bit at one end of board, slightly lower than board Set hi/lo travel button to lo. Turn on manual spindle and manually move bit to other end of board. Tadaaa. Board nicely edged. If you need deeper cut, then move spindle deeper.
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Post by branson on Feb 6, 2018 14:49:59 GMT -5
The next amazing trick is jointing boards. Clamp the board to be jointed on top of another board and have the edge stick out a bit from the bouuom board. Align this board to the axis before final clamp. Position the bit at one end of board, slightly lower than board Set hi/lo travel button to lo. Turn on manual spindle and manually move bit to other end of board. Tadaaa. Board nicely edged. If you need deeper cut, then move spindle deeper. Ha, yup! One of the first things I used the CNC for.
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Post by aluomala on Feb 6, 2018 16:07:44 GMT -5
I don't want to steal your thunder, because that is a pretty darned cool idea, but I found this software ( link) that helps create different types of joints. I haven't tried it yet (waiting on the arrival of my AR4Pro) but it looks pretty nice. Allan
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Post by gerry on Feb 6, 2018 18:26:12 GMT -5
I've heard that the software is pretty good, and the price is pretty fair. I've also got to try the Vectric Boxmaker and Dovetail gadgets.
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Post by branson on Feb 6, 2018 18:56:13 GMT -5
I've heard that the software is pretty good, and the price is pretty fair. I've also got to try the Vectric Boxmaker and Dovetail gadgets. Unfortunately you can’t make square inside cuts with software if you plan to round them over the v carve bits shallow out too quickly. I’m wanting the gap free joints instead of the rounded over look you get without vertical machining.
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Post by gerry on Feb 6, 2018 21:30:50 GMT -5
I figure to make them with no overcuts, then use plain, old chisels to clean 'em up.
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Post by traindriver on Feb 6, 2018 21:40:13 GMT -5
Awesome! I've done some box joints for 5 1/2" square boxes for post office box banks, but that's as big as a I could fit under the bit. I really like your setup.
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Post by branson on Feb 6, 2018 21:41:35 GMT -5
I figure to make them with no overcuts, then use plain, old chisels to clean 'em up. That’s what I would have done if this didn’t work, but now it’s not needed. Since I had the palm router I figured I could give it a go, and the results were great on the first run. I’m excited at the possibilities this opens up for my future projects.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2018 8:25:57 GMT -5
How rigid is the whole trim router clamping method? Any problems with the Z axis not having enough power going up? Great job, there are several machines out there that have this build in as a feature but not many.
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Post by branson on Feb 8, 2018 9:44:09 GMT -5
How rigid is the whole trim router clamping method? Any problems with the Z axis not having enough power going up? Great job, there are several machines out there that have this build in as a feature but not many. No issues with the z axis at all and no deflection on the router in the clamps. It is surprisingly stable considering it was made out of 1/2 inch MDF.
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Post by dickdelmi on Feb 8, 2018 12:56:40 GMT -5
Very good way to end cut boards. I had a Leigh M&T Pro that made all sorts of dove tail and M&T joints that I sold when I got my AR4 Pro. I really miss it. While doing some research I see that the Laguna Q has a built in overhang that enables this feature without adding a second router. I think it would behoove Axiom to work out adding this to their machines also. A retrofit kit would be really nice.
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Post by branson on Feb 8, 2018 23:13:24 GMT -5
Very good way to end cut boards. I had a Leigh M&T Pro that made all sorts of dove tail and M&T joints that I sold when I got my AR4 Pro. I really miss it. While doing some research I see that the Laguna Q has a built in overhang that enables this feature without adding a second router. I think it would behoove Axiom to work out adding this to their machines also. A retrofit kit would be really nice. Agreed I think they could easily make a retro kit for it so it’s not a shanty homemade job like I have.
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Post by oldgrowth on May 6, 2019 14:42:04 GMT -5
That's very clever indeed! Has anyone tried Tailmaker? It looks like there are some limiting factors that might not make it useful for larger material. From looking at their page, I believe there's a 5 pins/tails pairs maximum? And 150mm width limit? It looks like this is a pretty good solution to cutting dove tails on a cnc if not for those limitations. Does anyone know of any other solutions for dovetails (aside from adding another router to the machine to allow it to overhang)?
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Post by elizabethb on May 25, 2019 3:18:40 GMT -5
I figure to make them with no overcuts, then use plain, old chisels to clean 'em up. That’s what I would have done if this didn’t work, but now it’s not needed. Since I had the palm router I figured I could give it a go, and the results were great on the first run. I’m excited at the possibilities this opens up for my future projects. Great work yeah!! looks like it will take so much effort. How did you do this? Can you share video of this DIY? DIY router table
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Post by gerry on May 25, 2019 3:23:30 GMT -5
I don't do videos.... It's just plain old fashioned chisel work. Take a sharp chisel, and pare away.
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Post by buildswithbrian on Jun 13, 2019 5:41:41 GMT -5
Branson, very cool and innovative, I like the simplicity of the design. I'll bet it works great!
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