I am sure many of you know a better way, but I have not been able to find one on this forum.
I recently cleaned and refreshed the coolant (AR8+), following the instructions in the manual. Only to be left with air coming back up from the intake tube on the motor. Try as I may, I could not get rid of that air.
Some have suggested that its okay, but I was not happy. Air means oxygen and that means rust, or corrosion.
After all sorts of attempts, this one worked for me, without having to remove any tubes of open a closed liquid system at all.
1. Turn spindle speed to zero. 2. Remove motor from the mount. (its really heavy, so keep tight hold when you release the last hex bolt) 3. Holding the motor, then lower it to a point below the reservoir. This makes the air go up, but we need it to go up from the outtake of the motor. 4. Start the spindle, (pump only as the spindle speed should be zero). 5. With the motor horizontal (like a rolling pin) and the intake tube at the upper most of the motor slowly turn the motor so the intake tube moves to the bottom. 6. And magic, the air moved into the out pipe, back to the reservoir and was released into the reservoir.
I realize it seems a little cumbersome, but now I do not have air in my system.
I have only had my AR8+ for a year and am learning, but this made me happy.
Thanks for reading and be kind with your comments.
My reservoir cracked. Weird, no impact, just came apart and leaked everywhere. Of course, customer service was AWESOME and they sent a whole new unit 2nd day air. (Thank you). Bubbles stuck in the spindle. I'd watch them go in and not exit and I know air doesn't remove heat as efficiently as liquid (Cool off 25x faster in water than air). Followed your directions and they worked great. One additional step I would offer: while holding like a rolling pin, tilt left and right to get all the trapped air out of the internal baffles of the spindle. Took another minute or so but am confident now it is working as intended.
This is good to know, but my one problem is removing the spindle to do such can cause problems with cutting when you remount. I just trammed my spindle in my ar16 and it was a task! At least 2 hrs of work shimming spindle in mount so it’s flat within .01 at a 6” dia. I wonder if a syringe can be used to draw it out air...
I think I'm having a similar issue. I have an Autoroute 8 2017, and I had the same reservoir leak that others have experienced. I also had significant growth in the tubing which Chad had addressed previously. I cleaned it all out with compressed air, and it probably would have been fine. However, I decided to go ahead and replace the tubing while I was installing the new pump with flush valve.
I also started using an inhibited coolant (which Chad said wasn't necessary) and added an $8 silver coil to the reservoir which he did recommend as a good way to prevent corrosion.
However, it looks like there's a blockage in the spindle that's causing the system to perform very poorly. When I cleaned it out with compressed air I didn't find any blockages, so it could be that there's an air pocket somewhere in the spindle. I think I'm going to disconnect the tubing, and try to blow out the spindle again. It seems like you guys were able to fix the issue by turning the spindle sideways, but I'm not looking forward to that procedure if that's what I have to do. Hopefully you guys will be able to see the video below. You can see when I turn the spindle on it slowly starts to circulate, but when I turn it off it immediately starts to siphon back up. Clearly there's some back pressure on the supply side.
That's the EXACT behavior I had when there was an air pocket in the spindle. After manipulating it as outlined above, no more issues. I think the compressed air trick may actually be trapping air in the baffles inside the motor.
That's the EXACT behavior I had when there was an air pocket in the spindle. After manipulating it as outlined above, no more issues. I think the compressed air trick may actually be trapping air in the baffles inside the motor.
The spindles commonly get air trapped in them due to the design...nearly all cases are from the initial filling of the system.
Post by Gary Campbell on Aug 30, 2020 8:12:09 GMT -5
When I fill my new liquid cooled systems I remove 1 hose from the high point of the circuit, add a hose into a jug pf premix, then use a small hand held shop vac on the removed hose to pull the coolant thru the system. Then I run the pump for a half hour and top off the reservoir which usually removes and remaining minor bubbles. BTW, I use racing coolant and distilled water not antifreeze. Racing coolants have corrosion inhibitors and water wetters that improve cooling efficiency. Corrosion inhibitors reduce the electrolysis caused by dissimilar metals in the system. They do not prevent freezing.
I also use CLR or white vinegar to wash out all components (especially the spindle) and rinse well before filling
I followed everyone's advice, and it looks I've managed to purge all the air out of the system!
I removed the spindle and turned it sideways until the bubbles made their way to the outlet tube of the spindle. At that point you can return the spindle (and your airline tray table) to its upright position. The bubbles should continue all the way to the radiator.
Because the radiator is a series of 180 degree bends and smaller diameter tubing, there isn't enough pressure to push the air bubbles through. You end up with the same impediment that you had in the spindle. So you just have to unscrew it and keep it below the reservoir.
And there you go! Simple as that. Very satisfying to see the bubbles escaping out the reservoir.
I was just replacing and cleaning my coolant when I noticed that in the reservoir, when the spindle is running (zero rpm) there is an air vortex that is created in the reservoir tank. The lowest point of this vortex allows air into the outlet tube. I made sure my tank was almost full, purged the air and no more vortex. I think I found how air is getting into a "closed" system.
